About the category: The Bordeaux region in the south-west of France is famous for its red blends, the best of which have the ability to mature with years of bottle ageing. The two grape varieties that feature most prominently are austere Cabernet Sauvignon and fleshy Merlot, although Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot also play a role. This style has been imitated around the world and South Africa is no exception.
Key findings: In recent years, the Bordeaux-style red blend category has been one of the best performing when the Wine magazine panel has convened to review it, but this time around, results can only be termed disappointing. No wines rated 5 Stars, only two 4¬Ω Stars and three 4 Stars out of a line-up of 124 (compared to two 5 Stars, three 4¬Ω Stars and 10 4 Stars out of 115 in 2010 and two 5 Stars, three 4¬Ω Stars and six 4 Stars out of 123 in 2009).
How to explain this outcome? All the perennial shortcomings of South African red winemaking were in evidence. At the one end of the spectrum, wines that were lean, mean and green; at the other, wines that were overdone showing excessively ripe fruit, extravagant oaking, sweetness and high alcohols. The level of fault ‚ oxidation, volatile acidity, bacterial spoilage ‚ was in the words of Bernard Le Roux, panel member and winemaker (previously from Vilafont√© and now at Noble Hill in Paarl), “shocking”.
A particular concern was the heavyhanded use of oak with plenty of wines showing pronounced chocolate and coffee character. “Acceptable if the wine is at a modest price point, but not really what you want to see on more serious offerings,” observed panel member and former Wine magazine editor Fiona McDonald observed.
Ultimately, however, the panel was a little baffled as to why the category showed so poorly. Vintage must surely be factored in ‚ many wines were either from 2006 or 2008, both having a reputation for having been ‚challenging’ but this hardly explains the result away. Perhaps what all of us who hold the South African wine dear have to accept is that producers can’t afford to rest on their laurels ‚ for all the quality improvements in the last decade or so, there’s still plenty of hard work to be done.
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Spier Creative Block 5 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R112
Alc 14.77% RS 3.2g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.67
Merlot 38%, Cab 30%, Malbec 19%, Cab Franc 7%, Petit Verdot 6%. Cassis, and some tea-leaf character on the nose. The palate shows good concentration, fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Powerful and weighty but balanced. Drink 2012-2016.
CE 17 | BLR 16 | FM 17 | GdF 17 | JP 18.5
Hillcrest Hornfels 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R250
Alc 13.9% RS 1.2g/l TA 6.9g/l pH 3.78
Cab 25%, Cab Franc 30%, Merlot 12.5%, Malbec 12.5%, Petit Verdot 20%. Cassis, pleasing herbal note and graphite on the nose. The palate shows great purity of fruit and freshness. Oak very well integrated. Full bodied but classically styled. Drink 2012-2016.
CE 18 | BLR 17 | FM 16.5 | GdF 18 | JP 16.5
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Creation 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 14.5% RS 2.4g/l TA 5.5g/l pH 3.55
Merlot 55%, Cab 30%, Petit Verdot 15%. Reductive pong on the nose. Modern style with ripe dark fruit and smooth tannins. Drink now ‚ 2015.
CE 14 | BLR 15.5 | FM 16.5 | GdF 16.5 | JP 16.5
Saronsberg Seismic 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R170
Alc 14.92% RS 3.5g/l TA 6.6g/l pH 3.3
Cab 72%, Merlot 12%, Petit Verdot 11%, Malbec 5%. Ultra-ripe dark fruit on nose and palate. Plenty of weight on the palate with smooth tannins while fresh acidity lends balance. Drink now ‚ 2012.
CE 15.5 | BLR 16 | FM 16 | GdF 16.5 | JP 15.5
Gabriëlskloof Five Arches 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R190
Alc 14.98% RS 2.4g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.67
Cab Franc 29%, Cab 24%, Malbec 24%, Petit Verdot 18%, Merlot 5%. Vanilla and spice as well as some black fruit on the nose. Rich and full but balanced: good fruit concentration to carry heavy oaking. Drink now ‚ 2015.
CE 14.5 | BLR 18 | FM 17 | GdF 16 | JP 17
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Hermanuspietersfontein Kleinboet 2007 R101
Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 R120
Vuurberg Reserve 2007 R120
Eikendal Classique 2008 R150
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2008 R330
De Toren Fusion V 2008 ARP R331
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Eikendal Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 R70
Gabriëlskloof The Blend 2009* R75
Slaley Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 R80
Louis by Louis Nel Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 R99
Spier Creative Block 5 2008 R112
Nitida Calligraphy 2009 R115
Kanu Keystone 2006 R120
StellenRust Barrel Selection Timeless 2008 R120
Vrede en Lust Boet Erasmus Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec 2008* R130
Glenelly Lady May 2009 R235
Hartenberg The Mackenzie 2007 R245
Steytler Pentagon 2007 (Kaapzicht) R250
Zorgvliet Richelle 2006 ARP R250
Vilafonté Series M 2007 R300
Rupert & Rothschild Baron Edmond 2008 ARP R330
Mvemve Raats De Compostella 2007 R500
Ernie Els Signature 2006 R525
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Van Loveren Cramond Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009* R32.33
Horse Mountain Michele 2009* R38.76
Edenhof Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 R40
Simonsig Adelberg Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2010* R42
Oak Lane Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2010* (Beau Joubert) R45
Doolhof Cape Boar 2009* R49
Klein Steenberg Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon 2008* (Steenberg) R52
Delheim Woolworths Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 ARP R69
Allée Bleue Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 R75
Bernheim Classique 2008* R75
Nick & Forti’s Epicentre 2007 R75
Yonder Hill Inanda 2008* R75
Steenberg H.M.S. Echo Red Blend 2009* R80
Elgin Vinters Third Edition Agama 2007 R95
Morkel Tumara 2005 (Bellevue) R95
Provenance Rooi 2009 (Saronsberg) R95
Diemersdal Private Collection 2009 R100
Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2008 (Thelema) R100
Amani Cabernet Franc Merlot 2008 R101.50
Benguela Cove The Catalina 2009 R130
Hidden Valley Hidden Gems 2008 R135
Villiera Monro 2006 R138
Bayede! King Shaka Jubilee 2006 R139
Max 2007 (Miles Mossop) R170
Rietvallei Estéanna Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot 2008 R170
Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2006 R180
Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot 2008 R180
Hermanuspietersfontein Die Arnoldus 2007 R195
KWV The Mentors Orchestra 2008* R195
KWV The Mentors Orchestra 2009* R195
The High Road Director’s Reserve 2008 R198
Jordan Cobblers Hill 2007 R208
Dieu Donné The Cross Collection Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 R210
Groot Constantia Gouverneurs Reserve 2009 R220
Yonder Hill Nicola 2008 R220
Durbanville Hills Caapmans Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 R225
Tokara Director’s Reserve 2007 R236
De Grendel Rubaiyat 2007 R240
MM Louw Estate Red Unfiltered and Unfined 2009 (Diemersdal) R250
Vilafonté Series C 2007 R370
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Douglas Green Merlot Malbec 2010* ARP R29.95
Edenhof Cabernet Merlot 2007 R40
Edenhof Glen Rosa 2009 R40
Leopard’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009* ARP R42.99
Edenhof Glen Rosa 2007 R45
Groote Post The Old Man’s Blend 2010* R47
Monterosso Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006 R48
Waverley Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 R50
Hermanuspietersfontein 1855 Posmeester 2008 R65
Lady In Red Estate Reserve Red 2008* (Doolhof) R70
Allée Bleue Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 R75
Vondeling Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2007 R89
Lynx Xanache 2009 R90
Neil Ellis Aenigma 2007* R90
Le Bonheur Prima Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ARP R95
Raats Original Red Blend 2009* R95
La Motte Millennium 2009 R101
Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2008 R120
Springfi eld The Work of Time 2004 ARP R134
Welbedacht Cricket Pitch 2006 (Schalk Burger & Sons) R150
Muratie Ansela van de Caab 2008 R160
Stellekaya Orion 2006 R160
Simonsig Tiara 2008 R165
Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot Petit Verdot 2007 R180
Steenberg Catharina 2007 R185
Beyerskloof Field Blend 2007 R220
Durbanville Hills Caapmans Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot 2008 R225
Glenelly Lady May 2008 R235
Buitenverwachting Christine 2008 R250
Warwick Trilogy 2008 R250
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Riebeek Cellars Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009* R32
Sixpence Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2010* (Opstal Wines) R33
Allée Bleue Starlette Rouge Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 R35
Jacaranda Cuvée Rouge 2009* R39
Klein Dauphine 2′s Company Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 R40
Lion Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009* (Napier Winery) R42
Simonsvlei Premier Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009* R43
Mostertsdrift AnéRouge 2007 R55
Rawbones Butchers Block Merlot Cabernet Franc 2008* (Oak Valley) R55
Custom Crush Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2008 R57
Havana Hills Lime Road 1481 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2008 R60
Maison de Teijger Voorhout 2008 R65
Nomada Georgina 2009 R75
Spencer Bay Winemakers Reserve Thé Blend (Namaqua Wines) 2008 R75
Ashton Kelder Roodewal Cabernet Franc Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 R85
Backsberg Klein Babylons Toren Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005 R96.50
Belfi eld Aristata Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 R106
The Oak Valley Blend 2006 R115
Zevenwacht Z 2008 R144
Napier Red Medallion 2006 R150
Overgaauw Tria Corda 2006 R159
Ormonde Vernon Basson 2007 R170
Backsberg Family Reserve 2005 R197
Delheim Grand Reserve 2007 R210
Meerlust Rubicon 2006 ARP R301
One Bordeaux-style red blend wine tasted did not receive a star rating.
PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price ‚ all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP ‚ Approximate retail price
* ‚ Bottled under screwcap
Tagged Wine Categories explained
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KaraJune 23, 2011 at 12:00 am
I find this hard to believe.. Some of the top wines so poorly rated. Who exactly are the members of this ‘panel’.