Editor’s choice: April 2009

This month Christian Eedes looks at wines from Van Loveren, Eikendal, Jordan and Glen Carlou.

INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON
? ? ? ? FOUR STARS

Van Loveren Wolverine Creek Reserve 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R70
Robertson winery Van Loveren might have one of the best performing entry-level brands in the shape of Four Cousins, but this wine proves that it can compete at the top end of the market, too. Good fruit expression and well-judged oak, I considered it very elegant.
CE’s score: 18/20.

INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON
? ? ? ? THREE AND A HALF STARS

Jordan 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R97
SA reds have been criticized for being excessively green, but in this case I think a touch of herbaceousness adds to the wine. Plenty of pure fruit as well so no suggestion of the grapes being under-ripe. Austere on the whole as all good Cab should be.
CE’s score: 18/20.

INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON
? ? ? ? THREE AND A HALF STARS

Eikendal 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R76
Recalls the understated wines of Josef Krammer, who was incumbent at this Stellenbosch winery from 1987 to 2002. Pitch black in colour. Brooding nose. Palate shows concentrated dark fruit, good tannic grip and fresh acidity. Built to last.
CE’s score: 18/20.

INVESTMENT CABERNET SAUVIGNON
? ? ? THREE STARS

Glen Carlou Gravel Quarry 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R300
Big price tag, big wine. I described it as “vivid”, in the sense of having
great defi nition: the fruit is dense and optimally ripe, while the oak
character is well integrated and lends the wine heft. Ambitious
off erings like this are so often overdone but this has super balance.
CE’s score: 18/20.