Should power and weight hold sway over elegance and finesse when it comes to Muscadel? Two versions from Boplaas in Calitzdorp which illustrate the conundrum.
Boplaas Heritage Collection Mucadel 2012
Price: R120 per 750ml bottle
From a 1979 vineyard made only in exceptional years. A complex nose of sultana, lemon and orange, bee’s wax, a slight petrol-like quality and spice. The palate, meanwhile, is extraordinarily rich and viscous – delicious but not exactly easy to drink.
Bolaas Muscadel Reserve 2015
Price: R52 per 375ml bottle
A very forthcoming nose – citrus blossom before sultana, white pear and lemon plus a little spice. The palate meanwhile shows lots of pure, concentrated fruit offset by fresh acidity – beautifully balanced and hence quite more-ish.
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