It always strikes me as unfortunate when a table wine showing over-ripe or dead fruit gets described as “porty” as I think it does an injustice to well-made Port – raisined character is just as problematic on fortified wine as it is on unfortified. No raisins whatsoever in the case of the Vintage Reserve Port 2005 from Calitzdorp cellar De Krans. Rather a wine of great purity and focus, displaying both red and black fruit and plenty of spice. The spirit addition has been exceptionally well handled while there’s also really lively acidity. Rated 5 Stars in the 2008 edition of Platter’s, it’s starting to show the first signs of some development but is at least 10 years off its peak. Score: 18/20.