I’m generally sceptical of the burgeoning sub-category that is unwooded Chardonnay – most of the stuff is dry white for people who don’t like the particularly fresh acidity of Sauvignon Blanc and not a patch on Chablis.
But what to do when guests arrive unexpectedly for a Monday lunch? To eat, grilled aubergine and goat’s cheese salad matched with De Wetshof Bon Vallon Chardonnay 2009. The wine appeared quite rich, full and unexpectedly rewarding – ripe orange and yeasty, bread-like aromas and flavours with tangy acidity lending balance. Clearly, not all unwooded Chard need be insipid. Score: 15.5/20.