If anybody thinks that the re-birth of Chenin Blanc is complete, then you only have to look at the dearth of examples available on your average restaurant wine list to realise that there’s still a long way to go. Still, there’s no quibbling about the quality to be had and so presumably it’s only a matter of time.
A bottle of Bowed Head Chenin Blanc 2011 from Graham Beck last night was immaculate – it won gold at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show 2013 and seems to have only gained since then.
From Paarl vineyards planted in the late 1960s and early 1970s, it was matured in 400-litre French oak barrels, a third new. Citrus and peach plus that wet wool character so typical of the variety. Rich and full with coated acidity and a savoury finish. Lovely intensity, balance and length. A real pleasure.