Kaapzicht The 1947 Chenin Blanc 2013 is the kind of wine that stops you in your tracks. Grapes come from a block planted by current winemaker Danie Steytler Junior’s great grandfather in 1947 (thought to be the second oldest in the country after the Mrs Kirsten vineyard used by Eben Sadie) and hence the name.
Originally 6ha in size, only 1ha remains, with Steytler Junior having used a bobcat digger to move healthy vines in order to fill the gaps which inevitably occur over time. “The grapes from these vines ripen more slowly and they have a great analysis – they keep their acidity even when picked fully ripe,” he says.
Spontaneous fermentation was used and the wine comes from the best three barrels out of 12, of various sizes and about 50% new, with bottling done in January this year.
It’s a hugely complex yet entirely drinkable affair. Lime, white peach, yellow apple, earth, some yeasty complexity. Weightless intensity and all of a piece. Oxidative in style but perfectly done – the resulting vague sherry-like quality suits the wine. In a word, haunting.
The Steytler family have owned Kaapzicht since 1946 and bottled their first wine in 1984, making this year their 30th anniversary. The wine will be released in celebration of this, price to be confirmed.