The time has come for commentators to celebrate a broader spread of Sauvingon Blanc styles. A heavily pyrazine-driven way of doing it has held sway for about the last 10 years and it’s not difficult to work out why – prior to that local Sauvignon tended to be pretty wishy-washy so when these dramatically green wines came along, they really stood out and their intensity of flavour quite rightly reaped plenty of reward.
There’s an element of fashion when it comes to wine, however, and just as the drinking public became so fatigued with heavily wooded Chardonnay that the ABC (“Anything But Chardonnay”) movement sprung up, there is a danger that “green” Sauvignon Blanc will fall out of favour.
The winemaking team at KWV are a thoughtful bunch and the Cathedral Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2011 is clearly an attempt to be ahead of the curve. The aroma of granadilla billows out of the glass and it’s again present on the palate along with some pineapple, too. It’s fairly bursting with ripe fruit and it’s tempting to think of it as the perfect incarnation of new-wave Sauvignon Blanc but there’s one small but significant shortcoming in that it lacks real acidic zip. You’re left with the impression that its originators were trying too hard to get away from “lean and mean”. Score: 15.5/20. Cellar price: R80 a bottle.