Morgenster 2003

Going the distance.

The top-of-the-range Cape Bordeaux red blend from Morgenster in Somerset West is a wine which really does seem to benefit from some bottle maturaton – the 2011, for instance, rated 89 in the category report of 2015 and then 93 when it is was re-tasted in 2017.  The 2003, meanwhile, was one of the top 10 wines when we ran the 10 Year Old Wine Awards in 2013 (see here) and I’m happy to report that it’s still in great nick five years later.

A blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc and 30% Merlot, maturation lasted 13 months in French oak, 90% new. Dark red with an orange rim in colour, the nose is complex and enticing – red and black fruit but also subtle notes of pencil shavings, cigar box, earth and tar. The palate is medium bodied and beautifully composed – good fruit expression, fresh acidity and tannins that haven’t completely faded but continue to lend just the right amount of shape and form. The wine has a refreshing coolness about it (alcohol is 14.3%) and the finish is long and dry. Available from the farm at R525 a bottle.

Editor’s rating: 95/100.

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