To see in 2014, the 1994 vintage of Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch cellar Mulderbosch. This was the third ever vintage made by the celebrated Mike Drobovic from low-yeilding bush vines featuring the “Weerstasie” clone.
It was rated 5 Stars in the 1995 edition of Platter’s which went on to describe it as “South Africa’s most celebrated Sauvignon, the Cape’s Cloudy Bay, the trend-setting yardstick”. Elsewhere in the relevant entry, Dobrovic explains that “the Cape’s warmer climate produces the body New Zealand Sauvignon sometimes lack in a cool year, without sacrificing finesse or penetration. The guide also reveals that he regarded “metopyrazine character” (sic) as “undesirable” – Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc supposedly not showing it as opposed to some New Zealand examples!
The 1994 had a relatively low alcohol by volume of 12.5% but still plenty of body. The wine was remarkably youthful – some depth of colour but attractively pale for its age and no hint of drabness. Still plenty of sweet green melon fruit plus a touch of “sweatiness” but this hardly to the wine’s detriment. Difficult to imagine a Sauvignon from anywhere else in the world looking as good 20 years on from vintage.