Mullineux Schist Syrah 2013

2013 was the third year in a row of drought in the Swartland compelling producers to pick early according to Chris Mullineux of Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines, and the resulting wines are slighter than usual. 2014, meanwhile, saw picking dates pushed back and the wines are consequently a bit more weighty.

Mullineux presented a new-release tasting of the so-called “single terroir” in the range – 2014 in the case of the various versions of Chenin Blanc and 2013 in the case of the Syrah.

Mullineux Granite Chenin Blanc 2014
Wine Cellar price: R435
White peach and a slight note of reduction on the nose. Lean and fresh with an extremely pithy finish. Tight and rather ungiving right now but should reward bottle maturation.

Winemag rating: 91/100.

Mullineux Quartz Chenin Blanc 2014
Wine Cellar price: R435
White and yellow peach, flowers and a touch of earthiness. Rich and fuller than ever but balanced by tangy acidity. Has a lovely generosity about it.

Winemag rating: 93/100.

Mullineux Schist Chenin Blanc 2014
Wine Cellar price: R435
A subtle and rather pretty nose showing potpourri and dried herbs. The palate meanwhile is dense and powerful with an intensely savoury finish. Curious but compelling.

Winemag rating: 92/100.

Rad.

Mullineux Schist Syrah 2013
Wine Cellar price: R735
While the standard-label Syrah appears underdone in 2013 (see here), this bottling is exquisite. Red and black fruit, fynbos and lavender plus a touch of white pepper on the nose. Excellent fruit purity, fresh acidity and a nicely grippy finish. Intense but not weighty, intricate and refined, extraordinary long on the finish – truly memorable.

Winemag rating: 96/100.

Mullineux Iron Syrah 2013
Wine Cellar price: R735
Red and black fruit, fresh herbs, a pronounced earthiness and raw meat. Imposing but short of real finesse – rich and broad, lacking a little freshness and overtly stalky on the finish.

Winemag rating: 90/100.

Also just released:

Olerasay Straw Wine NV
Wine Cellar price: R435
A blend of Chenin Blanc from the 2008 through to the 2014 vintage. Notes of marmalade, peach and spice on the nose and palate. Astonishingly rich and concentrated on the palate but also possessing driving acidity. Surprisingly little oxidative character. A “concept wine” if ever there was one.

Winemag rating: 94/100.