Though Swartland cellar Mullineux Family Wines produced its first wines no longer ago than 2008, a combination of stellar ratings and sensible pricing (the Terroir Specific range notwithstanding) means that getting your hands on their stuff is proving increasingly difficult. Marketing manager Nicola Tipping invited me to taste the new release White 2012, Syrah 2011 and Straw Wine 2012 at Wine Concepts in Newlands today and I jumped at the chance.
Mullineux White 2012
76% Chenin Blanc, 16% Clairette Blanche and 8% Viognier. Subtle aromas and flavours of lemon, yellow apple, white peach and spice. Great concentration matched by tangy acidity. The fruit delineation is sharper than before, the wine less overtly oxidative. There seems ever greater clarity of vision when it comes to the winemaking. Inching towards completeness.
Mullineux Syrah 2011
Very expressive, almost overwhelmingly so. Aromas of red berries and fynbos leap from the glass, while the palate shows concentrated fruit and snappy acidity. It’s super-intense but happily not weighty. Hugely spicy on the finish – some 20% of the grapes underwent whole bunch ferment and the wine is just about on the right side of “stalky”. Admirably lively compared to many Swartland reds that can be listless but not as seamless, immediately convincing as 2010.
Mullineux Straw Wine 2012
Price: R230 (375ml)
100% Chenin Blanc. Dried peach and apricot, hint of burn sugar. Suitably thick textured but offset by driving acidity and hence nicely balanced. More lively than many other straw wines.