Top Sauvignon Blancs to drink this season

The fourth annual Wine magazine Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 competition attracted 230 entries, up from 226 last year and 186 the year before. Examine the results and once again there can be little dispute that this is currently South Africa’s strongest category. There was one wine rated 5 Stars (compared to three in 2009), a further seven 4½ Stars (13 in 2009) and 29 4 Stars (33 in 2009). The consensus was that 2009 was a stand-out vintage but 2010 hardly disappoints, eight of the top 10 being from this harvest.

The panel was at pains to reward different styles but it does seem as if Darling, Durbanville and Elim are now out in front when it comes to producing the country’s best-quality Sauvignon Blanc grapes (see pages 44 to 50 for detailed profiles of the top 10 wines).

What was again pleasing to see is that the best wines are not excessively methoxypyrazine driven (the compound responsible for Sauvignon Blanc’s grassy or herbeaceous character) but showed good fruit expression and were wellbalanced thanks to grapes picked at optimal ripeness.

There were one or two examples where the producer was attempting a super-ripe style, but these usually came across as heavy-handed and ungainly and were not rewarded. Another stylistic trend in evidence was the use of oak. A deft approach to barrel maturation can certainly add greater weight to the mid-palate (Steenberg HMS Rattlesnake 2010 a case in point) but the panel was not in favour of wines that showed overt wood-derived aromas and flavours.

A particular point of controversy was the issue of volatile sulphur compounds, specifically mercaptans. Mercaptans are formed by yeast reacting with sulphur in the lees after the primary alcoholic fermentation and resulting aromas can include anything from the pleasant (grapefruit, blackcurrant) to highly disagreeable (sweaty, cabbage-like). The panel was divided as to how much of this character to tolerate.

Sauvignon Blanc is now easily the biggest category of wines that the Wine magazine panel judges from year to year, and the observation was made that the success of the category has been driven by basic economics. If the producer gets it right, it’s a real money-spinner; if he gets it wrong, it’s going to be a pretty slow mover as consumers have a plethora of alternatives. This means that serious attention is being applied across the board resulting in a very high overall level of quality.

THE TOP 10 (in order of Star rating, then ascending price)

5 STARS
Anura Unfiltered Reserve 2010
CELLAR PRICE: R80
Alc 13% RS 1.4g/L TA 7.6g/L pH 3.4
Intensely herbaceous on the nose. The palate is focused and pure with flavours of lime and green pepper. Excellent line of acidity. Drink now – 2012.
CE 18.5 | JP 18 | PdW 18 | TB 17 | FR 17.5

4 1/2 STARS
Sauvignon.com 2010*
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R34.99
Alc 14.02% RS 1.8g/L TA 8.1g/L pH 3.35
Herbaceous, slightly sweaty nose. The palate is intensely flavoured, yet lean and very dry. Great line of acidity. Drink now.
CE 17 | JP 17 | PdW 16 | TB 17.5 | FR 16.5

First Sighting 2009*
STRANDVELD PRICE: R57
Alc 13.1% RS 1.9g/L TA 6.3g/L pH 3.32
Gravel-road dustiness and herbaceous character on the nose. The palate shows optimally ripe fruit and gentle acidity. Attractive paprika/white pepper note lends interest. Drink now.
CE 17 | JP 17.5 | PdW 16 | TB 16.5 | FR 17

Cederberg 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Alc 13% RS 2.4g/L TA 7g/L pH 3.49
Pungent nose showing plenty of grassy, herbaceous character. The palate shows great fruit expression and fresh acidity. Pronounced lime flavour. Clean and pure with a long finish. Drink now – 2013.
CE 18 | JP 17 | PdW 17 | TB 17 | FR 15

De Grendel Koetshuis 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Alc 13.5% RS 1.5g/L TA 7.5g/L pH 3.4
Very herbaceous on the nose. The palate is austere and elegant yet displays excellent flavour intensity. Lime and paprika flavour. Drink now – 2013.
CE 18 | JP 17 | PdW 17.5 | TB 17 | FR 16.5

Strandveld 2010
CELLAR PRICE: R90
Alc 14.12% RS 1.8g/L TA 6.2g/L pH 3.34
Gravel-road dustiness and herbaceous character on the nose. The palate is clean and pure with juicy fruit and fresh acidity. Lime and green pepper flavour. Drink now – 2013.
CE 18 | JP 17 | PdW 17 | TB 16.5 | FR 16

Graham Beck
Pheasants’ Run 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 14.2% RS 1.8g/L TA 7.9g/L pH 3.52
Intensely herbaceous on the nose and palate. Good palate weight, well integrated acidity. A complex wine with flavours of lime and paprika/white pepper. Drink now – 2012.
CE 17 | JP 17.5 | PdW 16.5 | TB 17.5 | FR 16.5

Graham Beck
Pheasants’ Run 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 13.56% RS 2.3g/L TA 7g/L pH 3.44
Intensely herbaceous on nose and palate. Clean and pure with juicy fruit and an excellent line of acidity. Long, dry finish. Drink now – 2013.
CE 17 | JP 17 | PdW 17.5 | TB 16 | FR 16.5

4 STARS
Darling Cellars Bush Vine 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R35
Alc 12.62% RS 2.9g/L TA 6.9g/L pH 3.28
Hint of green melon on an otherwise shy nose. Light-bodied, elegant and austere on the palate. Lemon-lime flavour, great line of acidity. Drink now.
CE 18.5 | JP 16.5 | PdW 16 | TB 16 | FR 16.5

Groote Post Reserve 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R95
Alc 13.85% RS 3.9g/L TA 7.6g/L pH 3.45
Very grassy, herbaceous on the nose. The palate is big but balanced with ripe, juicy fruit and tangy acidity. Lots of paprika/ white pepper flavour and good texture. Drink now – 2012.
CE 18 | JP 15.5 | PdW 16 | TB 16.5 | FR 17

Also 4 Stars:
Sonata 2009 (Waterstone) R28.62
Merwida 2010* R33
Conradie Family Vineyards 2010* R40
Kaapzicht 2010* R42
Villiera 2010* R43
Capaia 2010 R60
Villiera Tradition Bush Vine 2010 R60
Sir Lambert 2010* R70
Diemersdal Single Vineyard 2009 R71
Zevenwacht 360° 2009* R72
Buitenverwachting 2010 R75
Nitida 2010* R75
Rietvallei Limited Edition
Special Select 2009* R75
The Berrio 2008* R75
Rickety Bridge
Paulina’s Reserve 2009* R78
Vrede en Lust 2010* R79
Hermanuspietersfontein Nr 7 2010* R80
Steenberg HMS Rattlesnake 2010* R80
Tokara Reserve Collection
Elgin 2009* R80
Buitenverwachting Husseys Vlei 2009 R85
Spioenkop ‘1900’ 2010 R90
Kumkani Lanner Hill 2009
(the company of wine people) R99
Diemersdal Eight Rows 2010 R102
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2009 R110
KWV The Mentors 2009 R110
KWV The Mentors Sauvignon Blanc
Semillon 2009 R110
Klein Constantia Perdeblokke
Limited Release 2009* R120

3 1/2 STARS
Diemersdal Matys 2010* R32
Table Bay 2010
(Ultra Liquors) ARP R34.99
Slowine 2010* (Villiersdorp) R35
Eikendal 2010* R41.50
Diemersdal 2010* R43
Under Oaks Limited Release 2010* R44
Goede Hoop 2010 R45
MAN Vintners 2010* R45
Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection 2010* R47
Nico Vermeulen
The Right White 2009* R48
Terra D’Aria 2009* R48
Bellingham Sauvignon Blanc with a dash
of Semillon 2009* (DGB) ARP R48.95
Le Bonheur 2010 R50
Uitkyk 2010* R50
Robertson Limited Release
Retreat 2009* R51.20
Ondine 2009 (Ormonde) R52
Zoetendal 2009* R55
Bloemendal Suider Terras 2009 R60
Boschendal 1685 2009 R65
Havana Hills 2009* R65
Paul Cluver 2010* R70
The Berrio 2009* R75
Delaire 2010* R79
Bartinney 2010 R80
Benguela Cove 2010* R82
Claime d’Or 2010* R85
Delaire Coastal Cuvée 2010* R85
Flagstone Free Run 2009*
(Constellation Wines SA) R86
Domaine Des Dieux 2009 R90
Strandveld 2009 R90
Fleur du Cap Unfiltered 2009* R93
Groote Post
Woolworths Reserve 2009 ARP R95
Lomond Pincushion 2010* R102
Bouchard Finlayson Reserve 2010 R106
Hermanuspietersfontein Nr 5 2009* R126
David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner 2010* R155

3 STARS
Rockfield 2010* (Du Preez Estate) R25
Riebeek 2010* R29
Swartland 2010* R29
Bonnievale 2010* R29.50
Wellington 2010* R30
Arniston Bay 2010*
(the company of wine people) R31
Du Toitskloof 2010* R31
Welmoed 2010*
(the company of wine people) R32
Ionstone 2009 (Kingsbridge) R34
Odd Bins
Bin 201 2010* (Checkers) ARP R34.99
Odd Bins
Bin 205 2010* (Checkers) ARP R34.99
Spier Signature 2010* R35
Bergsig 2010* R39
Klein Steenberg 2010* (Steenberg) R44
Neethlingshof 2010* R44
Nederburg
Winemaster’s Reserve 2010* R45
Allée Bleue 2009 R49
Cool Bay 2010* (Boplaas) R50
Tokara Zondernaam 2009* R50
Nederburg FIFA 2010* R54
Simonsig Sunbird 2010* R54
Welbedacht 2010*
(Schalk Burger & Sons) R55
Christina van Loveren 2010*
(Van Loveren) R55.33
First Sighting 2010* (Strandveld) R57
Sterhuis 2009 R60
Onyx 2009 (Darling Cellars) R62
Graham Beck 2010* R65
Havana Hills 2010* R65
Lady Anne Barnard 2010
(African Pride) ARP R65
Neethlingshof Single Vineyard 2010* R65
Hartenberg 2009 R67
Diemersdal Single Vineyard 2010 R71
Cool Bay Reserve 2009* (Boplaas) R75
Hidden Valley 2010* R75
La Vierge The Original Sin 2009 R75
Spier Private Collection 2009* R75
Bouchard Finlayson Walker Bay 2010 R78
Southern Right 2009 R79
Spier Woolworths ‘Lonely Blue Gum’
2009 ARP R79
Durbanville Hills Rhinofi elds
Inner Valley 2009 R82
Durbanville Hills Rhinofi elds 2010 R82
Flagstone Free Run 2010*
(Constellation Wines SA) R86
Groot Constantia 2010 R86
Constantia Uitsig 2009* R90
Steenberg 2010* R90
Hermanuspietersfontein Nr 3 2010* R94
Grande Provence 2010* R95
Nederburg Manor House 2010 R97
Diemersdal Eight Rows 2009 R102
Klein Constantia 2010* R102
Spioenkop 2010 R110
Nitida Club Select 2010* R115
Shannon 2009 R118.55
Steenberg Reserve 2010 R180

2 1/2 STARS
Obikwa 2010* ARP R23
Two Oceans 2010* ARP R23
Stettyn Millstone* 2010 R27.50
Eagle’s Cliff 2010* (New Cape Wines) R30
Hill and Dale 2010* (Stellenzicht) R30
Music by D’Aria 2010* R32
Bon Courage 2010* R35
Bergsig
Woolworths What? 2010* ARP R37
Zidela 2010 ARP R37
Alexanderfontein 2010* (Ormonde) R38
Thandi 2010* R39
Boland Five Climates 2010* R39.50
Darling Cellars Woolworths
Bush Vine 2010 ARP R39.95
Yonder Hill Y 2010* R40
Zonnebloem 2010* ARP R41.99
Thierry and Guy Fat Bastard 2010*
(Robertson Winery) R43.40
Pecan Stream 2010* R45
Rietvallei Classic Estate 2010* R45
Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2010 R45
Kumkani 2009*
(the company of wine people) R54
Lomond 2010* R54
Signatures of Doolhof 2010* R54
KWV Reserve 2009* R56
Seidelberg 2010* R56.50
Indalo 2010 (Swartland) R57
La Motte 2010* R57
Kingsbridge 2009 R59
De Vallei 2010* R60
Fryer’s Cove Bay to Bay 2010* R60
Groote Post 2010* R62
Beau Joubert 2009* R65
Maastricht 2010* R65
Meerendal 2010* R65
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2009 R66
Zonnebloem Limited Edition 2010 ARP R66
Tierhoek 2009 R67.50
Thelema 2010* R70
Nitida Woolworths
Limited Release 2010* ARP R74.50
Clos Malverne 2010 R76
Creation 2009* R79.50
Steenberg 2008 R80
Tokara Reserve
Collection Walker Bay 2009* R80
Buitenverwachting Husseys Vlei
2010 R85
Cape Point Vineyards Woolworths Limited
Release 2009 ARP R89.95
Boschendal Reserve Collection 2009* R90
Mulderbosch 2008 R90
Mulderbosch 2009 R90
Bellngham The Bernard Series Oaked
2007* (DGB) ARP R95
Louis 2010* R95
Warwick Professor Black 2010* R95
Iona 2010* R98
Fryer’s Cove Bamboes Bay 2010 R100
Lomond Sugarbush 2010* R102
The Goose 2009 R110
Groot Constantia
Gouverneurs Reserve 2009 R113
Greyling Family Reserve 2010 ARP R149.50

2 STARS
Robertson Winery 2010* R25.40
Spier Woolworths
Light Low Alcohol 2010* ARP R29.95
Du Preez Private Cellar 2010* R30
Koelenbosch 2010* (Koelenhof) R32.50
Leopard’s Leap 2010* ARP R34.99
Bergsig Woolworths
Tell It Like It Is 2010* ARP R37
Excelsior 2010* R38.50
Bergsig Woolworths
Longmarket Wet Rock 2010 ARP R39
Alvi’s Drift 2010* R39.99
Boland 2009 R46
Hazendal 2010 R47
Du Toitskloof Reserve 2010* R51
KC 2009* (Klein Constantia) R53
Miravel 2010* R55
Mooiplaas 2010 R55
Rickety Bridge 2010* R58
Blue Grove Hill 2009 (Capaia) R60
Elgin Vintners 5th Edition 2009* R65
Hillcrest 2009* R70
Elgin Valley 2008* R75
Rustenberg 2010* R75
Sumaridge 2009* R75
Seven Steps 2009 R80
Southern Right 2010 R83
Oak Valley 2009* R85
Durbanville Hills
Rhinofi elds Outer Valley 2009 R86
Fleur du Cap Unfiltered
Limited Release 2010* R93
Fryer’s Cove Bamboes Bay 2009 R100
Waterford 2009 R100
Durbanville Hills Biesjes Craal 2010 R107

1 STAR
Major’s Hill 2010 R34.40
Bon Courage Three Rivers 2009 R35
Douglas Green 2010* (DGB) ARP R35.99
Linton Park Private Bin 177 2010 R38.50
Altydgedacht 2010* R50
Zevenwacht 2010* R53
Sophie Te’Blanche 2010 (Iona) R55
Whalehaven 2010* R60
Elgin Vintners 6th Edition 2010* R65
Creation 2010 R79.50
Domaine Des Dieux 2008 R90
Fleur du Cap Unfiltered 2010* R93

Five Sauvignon Blancs tasted did not receive a Star rating.

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap

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