The shortcomings of cork as a wine closure – taint and random bottle oxidation – are pointed out ad nauseam by its detractors but the alternative which is screwcap has its own deficiency, which is that it tends to exacerbate reduction on a wine.
The 2016 vintage of the Estate Pinot Noir from Paul Cluver in Elgin shows heavy reduction on the nose and yes, it’s closed under screwcap and no, decanting didn’t help. In addition, there’s red cherry and some spice.
The palate shows a great core of fruit, fresh acidity and very fine tannins. The wine is generally clean and correct as you would expect from this producer but currently there’s no getting past that reduction. There may be some amelioration over time but who’s to say? Price: R200 a bottle.
Editor’s rating: 88/100.