A recent review of M. Marengo Barolo Brunate 2008 generated much debate about what constituted good Barolo (see here). I thought it all a bit brutish but admittedly don’t drink enough of the stuff to argue my position with any conviction.
Yesterday, however, Constantia producer Steenberg presented its second annual Nebbiolo workshop and included two Barolos, the 2004 and Colonnello 2004 from producer Poderi Aldo Conterno in the line-up. In a word, much more of what I like when it comes to Barolo.
Poderi Aldo Conterno 2004
Price: R1 095
Red fruit and some tea leaf on the nose. Medium bodied with bright acidity and very fine tannins. Elegant and well balanced. Already drinking rather well.
Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonnello 2004
Price: R1 305
From a single vineyard, some 40 years old. Wonderfully complex nose showing red and black fruit, tea leaves, and only a hint of tar. Layers and layers of flavour on the palate. Weightless intensity and fantastic structure – the tannins are undoubtedly present but are not at all aggressive. Some oak in evidence but totally suited to the wine.