That blood is thicker than water was demonstrated last night when the four Schultz brothers employed at three different cellars combined to host a dinner at Aubergine restaurant in Cape Town. Carl is winemaker at Hartenberg, Rudi at Thelema and Gunter at Kleinood (which produces wines under the Tamboerskloof label) while Werner is viticulturist at Thelema.
An opportunity to showcase their various versions of Shiraz in particular, Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz 2005 and Kleinood Tamboerskloof Syrah 2008 served with veal brisket with morel mushrooms, red currant sauce and a savoy cabbage parcel followed by Thelema CWG Shiraz Reserve 2005 and Rudi Schultz Syrah 2009 with braised lamb shank with water lilies and pumpkin seed couscous.
On the night, the Gravel Hill appeared rich, dense and earthy while the Tamboerskloof was more red-fruited and medium bodied. The Thelema, meanwhile, was intense but quite unyielding and the Rudi Schultz made from Bellevue grapes was star of the show – red and black fruit, some floral fragrance, pepper. Very pure, clean and fresh and a joy to drink. Unfortunately only 140 magnums made and most sold in the USA already.
Special mention must be made of the Kleinood Viognier 2012 served with coconut bisque with mussels and fresh coriander. The wine was pure and concentrated with bright acidity and had real composure, not something you can usually say about this variety. No scores as it wasn’t that kind of evening.