The Old Bush Vines Chenin Blanc from Stellenrust is the prototype of a new collection of special bottlings of the variety will soon be releasing. Grapes come from a block in Bottelary over 30 years old and apparently the only plantings in the area to receive morning sun. Planted on granite and at altitude, grapes are less prone to Botrytis than usual.
Winemaker Tertius Boshoff says he is attempting to make something “truer to nature than to winemaker” and describes the wine as “toned down” compared to the cellar’s Super Premium range Barrel Fermented version. Prolonged skin contact, spontaneous fermentation and maturation lasting seven months in old 225-litre barrels.
It’s extraordinarly expressive on the nose with a top note of honeysuckle before all kinds of citrus, white peach and a hint of pineapple plus some leesy complexity and a little spice. The palate has fantastic presence – wonderfully generous fruit matched by tangy acidity. A substantial wine that moves really well in the mouth, the finish long and savoury. Price: R200 a bottle.
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