Do we really have any idea what’s going to work best where when it comes to South African wine? First Sauvignon Blanc and then Chardonnay were tipped as most likely to be Elgin’s strongest white grape offering but the Viognier Roussanne from Thelema’s vineyards in this district suggests that in the years, decades and centuries to come, it might be something else altogether.
A blend of 89% Viognier and 11% Roussanne, matured for 10 months in old oak, the 2012 is a stunner. It shows a floral top note before citrus and peach, subtle spice plus some subtle waxy character. There’s concentrated fruit on the palate matched by tangy acidity. It’s no longer entirely primary but equally you feel it has a good few years ahead of it. Lovely balance and genuine complexity. Extraordinary quality relative to price at R100 a bottle.