The 2014 vintage of The Old Vine Series Kokerboom made by Eben Sadie is demanding stuff. From Olifantsrivier Semillon, the vineyards were planted in the 1930s and include both the white-berried and the red-berried form of the grape.
On the nose, lime, pear, white peach, red table grape, thatch, dried herbs and some yeasty complexity – the list goes on. The palate meanwhile shows huge intensity, being weighty but not ponderous, the tangy, lemon-like acidity lending balance before a savoury finish. It’s a compelling wine deserving of a good few hours of contemplation. Price: R260.50 a bottle from Wine Concepts on Kloof.
Winemag rating: 94/100.