Vergenoegd Shiraz 1982

April 3, 2012
by Christian
in What I Drank Last Night
with 9 Comments

Defying the odds.

Scrounging around in my father-in-law’s cellar over the weekend, a solitary bottle of Vergenoegd Shiraz 1982, grown and made on the Stellenbosch estate and bottled by KWV. A neat 30 years on from vintage, it seemed as good a time as any to open it.

I confess I didn’t have very high hopes of it – the 1980s saw the advent of small oak barrels in South Africa and the resulting wines typically didn’t have sufficient fruit weight to carry all that new oak.

Surprise, surprise. It proved delicious – medium bodied in structure with the last vestiges of red fruit plus plenty of the savoury character which comes with development. Acidity was bright but not hard and the wine generally had a mellow softness about it. Score: 16/20.

As for winemaking, Platter’s editions of the mid-1980s advise that the wine would have been matured in large oak vats for three years…

Tagged ,

Share this post

9 Comments

  1. HennieNovember 6, 2013 at 5:08 pmReply

    Christian, in am interested to know how the wine was stored? Is your father-in-law’s cellar temperature controlled? I am storing my wine in the coolest parts of my house (such as at the bottom of built-in cupboards). Although it is cooler in the cupboard the temperature now goes up to 20 degrees but we haven’t had a proper summer yet so it will go up even more. I’m actually a bit concerned because in the last year I have made some heavy wine purchases. By the way I recently bought a couple of vintage wines (25 bottles many sold at the Nederburg auction) ranging from 1969 to 1982 and it includes the Shiraz you mentioned here. I paid R1500 for the lot so I’m thinking it’s good that there’s no meaningful secondary market for SA wines!

    • ChristianNovember 7, 2013 at 10:43 amReplyAuthor

      Hi Hennie, The wine was indeed from a temperature-controlled cellar. When it comes to long-term maturation, the bottom line is that temperature is the most important factor. Ageing involves complex chemical reactions, and as with all such reactions, these take place faster at a higher temperature. Also, reactions take place at higher temperatures that wouldn’t take place at all in cooler surroundings. Thanks to anecdotal observations, we know that wine ages superbly in underground cellars and the trick is therefore to replicate these conditions as far as possible – the average temperature of you home cellar should therefore be between 10 to 15 °C. Wine kept at 20 °C will typically age faster and stand to be less complex in maturity while wine exposed to temperatures above 25° C may be spoilt, taking on a cooked, jammy character. Time to spend even more money and invest in a Eurocave?

  2. KoobNovember 18, 2012 at 11:02 amReply

    How much do you reckon that bottle was worth mate?

    • ChristianNovember 19, 2012 at 9:45 amReplyAuthor

      Hi Koob, Difficult to say with any certainty given that any meaningful secondary market for SA wines has yet to emerge. I note that Groot Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon 1972 went for the equivalent of R1 733 a bottle at this year’s Nederburg Auction so I guess the Vergenoegd Shiraz might be valued at anywhere between R1 000 and R2 000 a bottle.

  3. ChristianApril 3, 2012 at 3:27 pmReplyAuthor

    Vergenoegd’s John Faure comments via email as follows: We started bottling Shiraz on the estate in 1978. We supplied KWV Shiraz in bulk in those years and they would then also bottle it under a label carrying the Vergenoegd name, but distinguished by a KWV seal absent from our own label. Therefore, the two parties were actually selling the same vintage, KWV supplying the international market and us the local market. Both we and KWV were still ageing the wine in large oak vats at the time that your wine was matured; we started ageing our wines in smaller barrels in the late 1980s.

  4. John FaureApril 3, 2012 at 2:52 pmReply

    This was the last year that my father, Jac Faure, made the Vergenoegd wines by himself, I joined him in the cellar in 1983. At that stage the general norm was to harvest at lower sugar levels than what we do today, this would have led to the elegance and firm acidity that Christian has found in this wine. I believe the ageability of our wines is a combination of our proximity to the sea (3km from False Bay) and our marginal soils, these factors result in longer ripening, smaller yields and fruit concentration. This is still applicable today as much as it was in 1982. Thanks for sharing your comments, I am pleased that you enjoyed the wine!

  5. ChristianApril 3, 2012 at 1:33 pmReplyAuthor

    Elegant rather than powerful but certainly not green. No “sweaty saddle” either (supposedly a trademark of Shiraz from that era). Balanced and quite Rhone-like. Made me think that all those that insist the variety is suited to local conditions aren’t completely wrong.

  6. KwispedoorApril 3, 2012 at 1:02 pmReply

    Good vintage too, 1982. I agree, DPJ – I also keep my Vergenoegds for much longer than most. They have an excellent maturation track record. General rule: earlier harvesting and lower alcohol levels then than now, so: any unripe/green impressions, Christian?

  7. DPJApril 3, 2012 at 10:29 amReply

    For what it’s worth, in my experience, Vergenoegd has consistently over-delivered on its maturation abilities. I am still drinking the ’95 Cab and “Reserve” which continually surprise me with their structure and freshness. An unsung hero in SA wine circles IMHO. But a drinkable 30 year old SA shiraz is indeed a noteworthy achievement .

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*

SHOP ONLINE
winemag-storm
ADVERTISING
ADVERTISING
HOT AND HAPPENING
AEC v1.0.4
  • October 20, 2017Wine on the River
  • October 24, 2017Veritas Tasting
  • October 25, 2017RMB WineX
AEC v1.0.4
ADVERTISING
newlstter2 Get the biggest stories of the past fortnight sent directly to your inbox. subscribe
FACEBOOK
TWITTER
ADVERTISING
BE SAFE

Wine magazine was published from October 1993 until September 2011 & now lives on in digital form as Winemag.co.za. We cover everything to do with SA fine wine.

XSLT Plugin by Leo Jiang