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Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2009

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Off the chart.

“Some of biodynamics is mumbo-jumbo but by applying it the vines are fundamentally better,” says Paul Boutinot on why he decided on this alternative approach for his Somerset West farm. For wine geeks, the essential measure of biodynamics must surely be whether or not it results in wines “truer” to site. Waterkloof being top of mind after a recent visit, a bottle of the flagship Sauvignon Blanc 2009.

It is quite an extraordinary wine but that said, difficult to get to grips with. How’s this for an analysis: Alc 13.5%, RS: 3.9g/l, TA: 9.60g/l and pH: 3.11. It shows green bean, lime and Granny Smith apple but really it’s difficult to pigeon-hole. There’s good palate weight and that crazy acidity is remarkably well integrated, the finish is extra-long. It’s one of those wines which inspires awe but doesn’t necessarily bring joy. Score: 17/20.

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