Waterkloof Seriously Cool Cinsault 2014

Lives up to its name.

Lives up to its name.

As of the 2015 vintage, Somerset West property Waterkloof carries official biodynamic certification and proponents of this alternative system of agriculture don’t come more zealous than farm manager Christiaan Loots.

As with all biodynamics practioners, a lot of what Loots argues just seems like common sense –conventional farming which is in league with agrochemical industry has led to dead soils and a more natural approach is needed to rectify this. Where it gets a bit freaky is when biodynamics starts invoking “life forces” and “cosmic energies”. All a bit quasi-religious for my liking…

Anyway, winemaker Nadia Barnard is making some quite smart stuff, my favourite being the Seriously Cool Cinsault, the recently released 2014 perhaps the best yet (Wine Cellar price: R100 a bottle).

Grapes come from a Helderberg vineyard approximately 50 years old and conventionally farmed, Barnard using 100% carbonic maceration for the first time. The fynbos perfume which characterised previous vintages is there but perhaps not quite so pronounced as well as strawberry and cherry plus a little earthiness. On the palate, it seems a bit more substantial than before with slightly firmer tannins while there’s a pleasant salty quality to the finish. Cinsault’s time is coming if it isn’t here already…

Score: 91/100.

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