Buying guide: Bordeaux-style red blends

Bordeaux-style red blends

About the category: The Bordeaux region in the southwest of France is famous for its red blends, the best of which have the ability to mature with benefit with years of bottle ageing. The two grape varieties that feature most prominently are austere Cabernet Sauvignon and fleshy Merlot, although Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot also play a role. This style has been imitated around the world and South Africa is no exception.

Key findings: The Bordeaux-style red blend category is supposedly one of South Africa’s more prestigious and so the panel sat down to a line-up of 123 current-release wines (spanning vintages from 2002 to 2008, with the bulk drawn from 2005 and 2006) with high expectations.

It was therefore extremely gratifying when two wines received WINE magazine’s rarely bestowed ultimate accolade of 5 Stars, namely Diemersdal Private Collection 2006 and Warwick Trilogy 2005. In addition, there were three wines rated 4 Stars and six 4 Stars, meaning that there are indeed some wines of very high quality to be had.

It must be said, however, the spread of quality from top to bottom was striking, if not that surprising (Bordeaux’s most famous producers represent less than five percent of the region’s total production).

The poorer examples betrayed a lack of attention to detail, and all the usual faults were in evidence: either under-ripe or overripe fruit, oxidation, over-oaking, bacterial spoilage and so on. Too many generic reds and not enough wines of character and distinction.

Soundbite: “The good wines are very, very good. The bad wines are nasty” – Carrie Adams of Norman Goodfellows.

BEST VALUE – TOP THREE WINES
Wines rated 2 stars or better and recommended for particularly good value on
the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price per bottle:

1. Klein Dauphine 2′s Company 2007 ARP 3 Stars R40
1. Oak Lane Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007* (Beau Joubert) 3 Stars R40
3. KC Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006 (Klein Constantia) 3 Stars R53

What to eat with a bordeaux-style blend

Chef Laura Norton of Henri’s suggests roasted Kudu Loin wrapped in Parma Ham, served on a saffron and bone marrow risotto with a red wine jus.

Are you geting what you pay for?
Average price of the 123 red blends assessed: R128
Average price per 750ml of the 2 wines rate 5 stars: R243
Average price per 750ml of the 9 wines rated 4 to 4 stars: R160
Average price per 750ml of the 32 wines rated 3 to 3 stars: R168
Average price per 750ml of the 23 wines rated 2 stars: R107
Average price per 750ml of the 32 wines rated 2 stars: R116
Average price per 750ml of the 25 wines rated less than 2 stars: R91

? ? ? ? ? five stars
Diemersdal
Private Collection 2006
CELLAR PRICE R85
Alc 14% pH 3.6 RS 2.5g/l TA 5.9g/l
Some dusty notes on otherwise shy nose. An
elegant wine showing flavours of cassis and
a light spiciness. Excellent balance between
juicy fruit and fine tannins. Medium bodied
with a persistent finish. Keep for 2 to 7 years.
CE 19 FR 17.5 AL 19 JP 17.5 CA 18

Warwick Trilogy 2005
CELLAR PRICE R400
Alc 14.6% pH 3.55 RS 2.0g/l TA 5.6g/l
Very dark, almost limpid in colour. Cassis,
violets and attractive oak spice on the
nose. Palate shows ripe black fruit and firm
tannins. Good fruit expression, smooth textured.
An excellent example in the modern
idiom. Keep for 2 to 6 years.
CE 18 FR 17.5 AL 17.5 JP 18 CA 18

? ? ? ? ? four and a half stars
Hermanuspietersfontein
Kleinboet 2006
CELLAR PRICE R86
Alc 14.38% pH 3.50 RS 2.8g/l TA 5.8g/l
Cassis, graphite and some herbal notes on
the nose. The palate is clean and intense -
dark fruit matched by well integrated oak.
Still youthful – keep for 2 to 6 years.
CE 16 FR 17.5 AL 17.5 JP 18 CA 16

Saronsberg Seismic 2006
CELLAR PRICE R165
Alc 14.8% pH 3.39 RS 3.6g/l TA 6.4g/l
A brooding nose showing dark fruit, coffee
and some tarry notes. The palate is full bodied
with pure, concentrated dark fruit and
firm tannins. Rich and succulent. Drink now
or over next 2 years.
CE 18.5 FR 17 AL 15.5 JP 17.5 CA 18

Tokara 2005
CELLAR PRICE R215
Alc 14.64% pH 3.72 RS 1.6g/l TA 6g/l
Brilliant ruby in colour. The nose shows
attractive oak spice and some herbal notes.
Cassis fruit, subtle oak enhancement and
fresh acidity on the palate. Well focused and
long. Keep for 2 to 6 years.
CE 17.5 FR 16.5 AL 17 JP 17.5 CA 17

? ? ? ? FOUR STARS
Vergelegen Mill Race Cabernet
Sauvignon Merlot 2006
CELLAR PRICE R66
Alc 14.5% pH 3.56 RS 3.1g/l TA 5.6g/l
Shy nose. Medium bodied palate with red
fruit, fi ne tannins and fresh acidity. Elegant,
not overly weighty. Drink with in 2 years.
CE 15.5 FR 17 AL 16 JP 16 CA 18

Beaumont Ariane 2006
CELLAR PRICE R250 (1.5l)
Alc 13.5% pH 3.52 RS 2.1g/l TA 6.0g/l
Black berry and oak aromas on nose. Palate
shows good fruit richness and grippy tannins.
Drink now or over the next 2 years.
CE 15.5 FR 16 AL 16.5 JP 18 CA 17.5

Amani I am 1 2007
CELLAR PRICE R120
Alc 14% pH 3.49 RS 2.7g/l TA 6.2g/l
Pronounced cassis on nose and palate. Juicy
and fresh with well judged oak. Good fruit
defi nition, fi rm tannins. Very youthful -
keep for 3 to 5 years.
CE 17 FR 16.5 AL 16 JP 15.5 CA 16.5

Max 2006 (Miles Mossop)
CELLAR PRICE R135
Alc 14.5% pH 3.54 RS 2.32g/l TA 5.75g/l
Cassis and oak spice on the nose. Sweet, rich
and ripe on the palate. Very full and smooth
textured. Drink now or over next 2 years.
CE 15.5 FR 16 AL 17 JP 17.5 CA 16.5

Stellekaya Orion 2005
CELLAR PRICE R150
Alc 15% pH 3.78 RS 2.2g/l TA 5.8g/l
Cassis, coff ee and tar on the nose. A bold
wine with sweet, succulent fruit and chunky
tannins. Slight rustic quality but layers of
fl avour. Drink now or over next year.
CE 16.5 FR 17.5 AL 17.5 JP 15 CA 15.5

A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines
CWG Auction Reserve 2005
AUCTION WINE
Alc 14.74% pH 3.68 RS 1.7g/l TA 6.6g/l
Cassis, violets and attractive oak spice on the
nose. Sumptuous palate with juicy fruit and
fi rm but fi ne tannins. Well balanced with a
long, dry fi nish. Keep for 1 to 6 years.
CE 16 FR 16.5 AL 16.5 JP 16 CA 16

? ? ? ? THREE AND A HALF STARS
KC Cabernet R53
Sauvignon Merlot 2006 (Klein Constantia)
The High Road Classique 2006 R82
La Vigne Owner’s Selection 2006 R95
Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon R150
Merlot Cabernet Franc 2006
Hermanuspietersfontein R167
Die Arnoldus 2006
Beyerskloof Field Blend 2005 R200
De Grendel Rubaiyat 2006 R240
Emineo Liber I OCG 2006 R245.83
Vergelegen 2004 R328

? ? ? THREE STARS
Klein Dauphine R40
2′s Company 2007 ARP
Oak Lane Merlot R40
Cabernet Sauvignon 2007* (Beau Joubert)
Hermanuspietersfontein R49
1855 Posmeester 2007*
Woolworths Delheim R58
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007
Laibach R80
The Ladybird Organic 2007
Dombeya Samara 2006 R85
Webersburg 2003 R90
Stellenrust Timeless 2005 R120
Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2005 R128
Eikendal Classique 2005 R130
Chamonix Reserve Troika 2006 R140
Rustenberg John X Merriman 2006 R145
Klein Constantia Marlbrook 2006 R150
Groot Constantia R190
Gouverneurs Reserve 2006
Delheim Grand Reserve 2006 R195
Laibach Friedrich Laibach 2006 R200
Mreson Magia 2006 R200
Durbanville Hills Caapmans R210
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006
De Toren Fusion V 2006 R250
Fleur du Cap Laszlo 2006 ARP R250
Vilafont Series M 2006 R250
Rupert & Rothschild R286
Baron Edmond 2005
Ernie Els 2005 R525

? ? ? TWO AND A HALF STARS
Villiera R40
Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Makro)
Badsberg Belladonna 2007 R46
Rozier Bay Merlot R46.50
Cabernet Sauvignon 2004* (Mount Rozier)
Blue Grove Hill R65
Merlot/Cabernet 2007 (Capaia)
Spookfontein Phantom 2006 R65
Nick & Forti’s R70
Epicentre 2005 (Saronsberg)
Yonder Hill Inanda 2003 R70
Alle Bleue R72
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006
Hillcrest R80
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006
Slaley Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006 R80
Vrede en Lust Classic 2005 R80
Seidelberg Un Deux Trois 2006 R89
Russo 2007 R90
Danie de Wet R100
Blend 2006 (De Wetshof) ARP
Havana Hills R105
Du Plessis Reserve 2004 ARP
Joubert Tradouw R62 R105
Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
Creation Cabernet Sauvignon R124.50
Merlot Petit Verdot 2007
Rietvallei Estanna 2007 R125
The High Road Reserve 2006 R138
Vuurberg Reserve 2006 R150
Avontuur Baccarat 2005 R175
Jordan Cobblers Hill 2005 R198.50
Vilafont Series C 2006 R350

? ? TWO STARS
Izarra Red Reserve NV ARP R22.95
(Mother City Wines)
Landskroon Paul Hugo Red 2008* R27
Douglas Green R29
Merlot Malbec 2008* (DGB) ARP
Woolworths R40
La Motte Grand Rouge 2007 ARP
Monterosso R40
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005

WORTHY OF
INVESTIGATION
Jordan
Cobblers Hill 2005
Panelist James Pietersen
says: “Herbal, savoury nose.
Juicy entry, good texture. Some
earthiness. JP’s score: 17/20.

Groote Post R42
The Old Man’s Blend 2008
Goedverwacht Triangle 2006 R50
KC Cabernet Sauvignon R53
Merlot 2007 (Klein Constantia)
Avontuur R62
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006
Ridgeback Journey 2005 R70
Doolhof Renaissance R80
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006
Blaauwklippen Vineyard Selection R82
Cabriolet 2005
Backsberg R84.50
Klein Babylonstoren 2005
L’Avenir Stellenbosch Classic 2006 R85
Le Bonheur Prima 2006 R85
Stony Brook “ e Max” 2005 R90
Elgin Vintners Agama 2006 R95
Rosendal Barony Catalina 2006 ARP R99
Mooiplaas Rosalind 2005 R101
Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2005 R105
Villiera Monro 2004 R115
Bowwood R120
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005
Napier Red Medallion 2003 R125
Welbedacht R140
Cricket Pitch 2006 (Schalk Burger & sons)
Amani Cabernet Franc Merlot 2007 R145
Capaia 2007 R155
Epicurean 2006 R250
Meerlust Rubicon 2005 R260
Morgenster 2005 R300
Deetlefs Familie 2005 R320
Constantia Glen 2007 R350

ONE STAR
Blouvlei Cabernet Sauvignon R30
Merlot 2007* (Mont du Toit)
Welgemeend Soopjeshoogte 2002 R44
Avontuur Vintner’s Red 2005 R45
Ingwe Reserve 2006 R60
Welgemeend Douelle 2003 R63
Havana Hills R65
Lime Road no1481 2007 ARP
Danie de Wet Limestone Hill R72
Classic 2006 (De Wetshof)
Spencer Bay R75
Th Blend 2007 (Namaqua Wines)
Vondeling R75
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005
Ruitersvlei Private Collection 2006 R79
Lynx Xanache 2007 R80
Tumara 2005 (Bellevue) R80
Welgemeend Estate Reserve 2003 R80
La Motte Millennium 2006 R94
Graham Beck  e Andrew 2006 R96
Kanu Keystone 2005 R97
Viljoensdrift Serenity 2005 R99
Springfi eld  e Work of Time 2003 R100
Glen Carlou Grande Classique 2005 R120
Klein Genot Black Swan Reserve 2007 R138
Klein Constantia Marlbrook 2007 R150
Buitenverwachting Christine 2006 R240

ALSO TASTED
Buitenverwachting Meifort 2006 R55
Raka Quinary 2005 R78
Bilton Sir Percy 2005 R155
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping are
listed in order of ascending price -
all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

ARP Approximate retail price
* Bottled under screwcap

WINE TASTERS: editor of WINE magazine
Christian Eedes (chair) (CE), wine writer
Angela Lloyd (AL), Wine Tasting Academy
graduates Francois Rautenbach of Singita
Game Reserves (FR), James Pietersen
(JP) and Carrie Adams of retailer Norman
Goodfellows (CA).

Tagged Wine Categories explained