“Unquestionably the greatest Bordeaux vintage I have ever tasted,” was über-critic Robert Parker’s take on the 2009 Bordeaux. So what went down in this most hyped of vintages?
Last night a tasting of 12 examples at Cape Town wine brokers Wine Cellar. These are super-concentrated, weighty and powerful wines that are at least 10 years away from being anywhere near giving real drinking pleasure.
An interesting contrast was two wines from cult winemaker Jonathan Maltus. The Laforge 2009 is a blend of a blend of three separate St.-Emilion terroirs and consists of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Parker scored this 96 on the 100-point scale while I thought it was good but rather joyless: over-ripe and over-oaked (my score: 15/20).
Le Dôme, meanwhile, is from a 3ha vineyard situated next to Chateau Angelus and in the case of the 2009 consisted of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot. Parker scored it 99 and I can see why. A core of dark fruit to go with monumental structure. While the Laforge is entirely exaggerated, the Le Dôme sits on the right side of the divide between authenticity and caricature. Score: 18/20.
Laforge 2009 is R595 a bottle from Wine Cellar and Le Dôme is R2 550. To order, call 021 448 4105.