Grapes for the Allée Bleue Black Series Old Vine Pinotage come from a Piekenierskloof block of ungrafted bush vines planted in 1976, making for a rather particular wine – the 2016 among the winners of last year’s Absa Top 10 Pinotage competition.
The 2017 is now out, selling for R395 a bottle, and once again there’s no overlooking it. Matured for 16 months in French oak, 70% new, alcohol is 14.5%. The nose has a pronounced herbal, almost menthol, character to go with blackberry, liquorice, earth and spice while the palate is marked by dense fruit, fresh acidity and very firm tannins. Love it or hate it stuff.
Editor’s rating: 90/100.
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