Columella 2006

By , 14 October 2019

Going like a Boeing.

Whereas the current-vintage Columella 2017 from Swartland producer Sadie Family Wines consists of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca that was matured for 12 months in barrels (8% new) and thereafter an additional 12 months in old, big oval casks, the 2006 was an 80:20 blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre matured for 24 months in French oak, 60% new.

A change in winemaking approach over time but you have the sense that terroir will always outweigh technique when it comes to this wine, the 2006 right now in terrifically good nick and for those of us lucky to drink this wine on a semi-regular basis, true to the Eben Sadie vision of representing the district as authentically as possible.

The nose is still extraordinarily primary with notes of red and black berries, fynbos, earth and spice while the palate shows dense fruit, fresh acidity and tannins that are still remarkably grippy. Full bodied and sweet in the best sense, muscular yet still energetic, you have the sense that this will still provide drinking pleasure for at least another decade.

Editor’s rating: 94/100.

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