Eben Sadie’s signature series red that is Columella grows ever more sophisticated, the recently released 2014 a blend of 60% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre with the remainder being Cinsaut, Tinta Barocca and Carignan, maturation lasting 12 months in barrels, about 5 to 8% new, followed by a further 12 months in old, large format casks.
On the nose, plums and red cherries, a hint of spice and subtle vanilla. The Swartland trademark aromatics of fynbos, olive and earth are also there but pushed way back while anything floral is just about absent as if prettiness might contradict gravitas. The palate meanwhile possesses pure fruit, fresh acidity and wonderfully granular tannins. The wine appears not so much tight as ungiving right now but will no doubt gain greater detail with time. Wine Cellar price: R750 a bottle.
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