Shifts in the wine industry might occur slowly but they occur definitively even so, witness the fact that at the beginning of the 19th century, 90% of local vineyard plantings consisted of “groendruif”, supposedly Semillon, this dropping to 40% by the start of the 20th century and now sitting at around 1%.
Single-variety Semillon is the preserve of geeks but that’s not to say some very fine wine can’t be made from it. Recently a bottle of Semillon 2007 from Constantia Uitsig. It showed lime, some waxiness and intriguing bottle-age character on the nose. The palate meanwhile had good flavour intensity including some pyrazine bite but what captivated was the mouthfeel, broad but not heavy and acidity nicely integrated. While it rated 5 Stars in the 2009 edition of Platter’s, I think it’s just starting to fade. Score: 17/20.