DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2013

By , 26 March 2014

Comment

5

Impenetrable.

Impenetrable.

The Maestro 2012 from DeMorgenzon not only picks up a rating of 5 Stars in the current edition of Platter’s but is also declared White Wine of the Year (see my review here). How might the follow-up 2013 be shaping (R121.99 a bottle from Liquor City in Claremont)?

A blend of 37% Chenin Blanc, 24% Roussanne, 24% Chardonnay and 15% Viognier, the 2013 appears more brooding and unapproachable than the 2012 did at a similar stage. A muted nose and a coiled palate. Lots of weight, the acidity nicely coated, the finish admirably savoury but difficult to discern any detail beyond that. Look really hard and there are hints of citrus, white peach, baked yellow earth and spice. It’s monolithic but strangely still captivating – a sort of Easter Island statue of a wine.

Score: 91/100.

Comments

5 comment(s)

  • Angela Lloyd26 March 2014

    Sounds like the sort of wine that needs to be left open for a day, then tried again. If you have any over, why not do that?

    • Christian26 March 2014

      Actually, I think it’s the sort of wine which shouldn’t be opened at all for at least the next 12 months…

  • James Pietersen26 March 2014

    I tried this wine earlier in January and found the wine tight in the best possible sense. The fabulously focussed acidity bodes well for longevity. Drinking with a fellow sommelier, we concluded that it needs a year to come round. No fat on this one at the moment. Buy and store, best drunk summer of 2015.

  • Colyn Truter26 March 2014

    for a write-up that doesn’t sound too great 91 sure is a high score on what the wine can potentially become…

    • Christian26 March 2014

      I probably should’ve added “Drink 2015 – 2018” but hey, it’s on sale in a suburban bottle store right now and a lot of it is going to get consumed before Platter’s 2015 or anybody else of note passes judgement on it. It’s a smart wine just not very loveable at the moment.

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