DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2013
By Christian Eedes, 26 March 2014
The Maestro 2012 from DeMorgenzon not only picks up a rating of 5 Stars in the current edition of Platter’s but is also declared White Wine of the Year (see my review here). How might the follow-up 2013 be shaping (R121.99 a bottle from Liquor City in Claremont)?
A blend of 37% Chenin Blanc, 24% Roussanne, 24% Chardonnay and 15% Viognier, the 2013 appears more brooding and unapproachable than the 2012 did at a similar stage. A muted nose and a coiled palate. Lots of weight, the acidity nicely coated, the finish admirably savoury but difficult to discern any detail beyond that. Look really hard and there are hints of citrus, white peach, baked yellow earth and spice. It’s monolithic but strangely still captivating – a sort of Easter Island statue of a wine.