Domaine Lorenzon Carline 1er Cru 2009
By Christian Eedes, 28 November 2013
Bruno Lorenzon of Domaine Lorenzon in Mercurey, Burgundy wandered into the Eikendal cellar just before the 2008 harvest where he made the acquaintance of then assistant winemaker Nico Grobler and the two have been friends ever since trading ideas whenever they meet.
Lorenzon is the fourth generation of his family to farm 6ha of middle-rank Mercurey. “I have to shut up and accept the appellation ,” he says. He farms organically (“no chemicals on the ground”) and pays heed to the lunar calendar. He also believes in higher than usual canopies to maximise photosynthesis and therefore concentration in the wines. In the cellar, he is adamant that there should be “no chaptalisation, no acidification”. When it comes to Pinot Noir, he believes in “infusion rather than extraction” – perhaps five punch-downs over five weeks.
Lorenzon is looking to export perhaps a 100 cases of his various wines to South Africa and yesterday a quick tasting of his Champs Martin 1er Cru 2011 white and red, his Pièce 13 2011 red (“mille-feuille winemaking” – the best from six to 10 different blocks) and Carline 2009, a special bottling from his Champs Martin Pinot Noir vineyards.
While 2011 is considered a lesser vintage, 2009 is much vaunted and it was Carline 2009 which wowed. Red and black fruit and a touch of olives. Rich but balanced. Plenty of juicy fruit but not at the expense of structure and freshness. 75% whole bunch ferment but not even a suspicion of stalkiness. A really effortless wine.