Though the wines of Donkiesbaai have been most accomplished just about since inception in 2011, I’m not sure this side project belonging to Jean Engelbrecht of Rust en Vrede gets enough acclaim (Tim James’s recent positive article aside).
The Steen 2018 is again excellent. Grapes from Piekenierskloof and vinification involving barrel, concrete egg and clay amophora, the nose shows hay and dried herbs before citrus, peach and the merest hint of leesy complexity. The palate is marked by fruit that is pure and dense, lovely fresh acidity and a salty finish (alcohol: 14%). It drinks very well now but equally should mature with benefit. Approximate retail price: R280 a bottle.
Editor’s rating: 93/100.
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