Groot Constantia winemaker Boela Gerber proved his credentials with Chardonnay when the 2009 vintage under reserve label Gouverneurs rated 5 Stars in the 2011 edition of Platter’s. The Gouverneurs 2010, however, underwhelmed in my Chardonnay Report of last year rating 3 Stars, the feeling among the panel being that “the acidity (was) rather too soft and the oak too much in evidence”.
There was a refinement of the range as of 2011, the Chardonnay repositioned under the standard label. Lunch at Jonkershuis restaurant on the property yesterday afforded the opportunity of drinking it and I’m glad to say Gerber is back on form. Barrel fermented and matured in 11 months, 30% natural, 75% malo. “2011 was a cracker – so much more complex, so much depth of flavour,” says Gerber. I found intense lime and lemon and some appealing oak-derived vanilla character. Quite thick textured but this is offset by zingy acidity. Great with grilled yellowtail and a “citrus beurre blanc “ or lemon butter as it was called back in the day. Score: 17/20. Farm price: R146.