By Christian Eedes, 14 March 2012
Andy Erickson, who was winemaker at the legendary Screaming Eagle winery in California, is now involved at Mulderbosch as a consultant. At yesterday’s launch of the new Mulderbosch tasting room (on the premises of what used to be sister winery Kanu), he showed his Leviathan 2009, a blend of 28% Syrah, 26% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 21% Cabernet Franc.
Erickson along with wife Annie Favia produces a range of small-production, ultra-premium wines from highly coveted sites around California under the “Favia” label and Leviathan sees some of these batches blended together to create a wine only slightly less premium at $48 a bottle.
I can’t say I can reference Leviathan against Screaming Eagle (the 2009 vintage currently going for about $1 375 a bottle) but in a more general context, it’s pretty damn smart. Smoke, dark fruit, some floral fragrance and, dare I say, a subtle herbaceous note on the nose. The palate, meanwhile, is full but balanced with great fruit concentration, really zippy acidity and firm but fine tannins. It comes across as very poised and gives the lie to the notion that all top-end Californian reds are big and clumsy. Score: 18/20.