Super-deluxe Chardonnay. It’s a trend. There’s Clos du Ciel 2013 from Longridge at R530 a bottle and the Jackson Family – Graham Beck joint venture Capensis, the maiden vintage 2013 launched at R935 a bottle an now FYM (Fox.Yankee. Mike) from Franschhoek property Môreson, the current release 2012 selling for R750 a bottle.
FYM is “a celebration [of owner Richard Friedman’s] forty years of flying” and is made from a 0.27ha.block of vineyard planted in 1998 with CY18, a clone which is no longer commercially available. Matured for 12 months in 100% new French oak, the 2012 is a show-stopper.
Lemon and orange, honey and some attractive yeasty character on the nose, the palate really fills the mouth. Extraordinarily rich and greasy yet still balanced, plenty of ripe fruit offset by tangy acidity. It’s very well made but made it is – it resembles Clos du Ciel and Capensis in broad terms, and I confess I have a weakness for this style of Chardonnay although I know I wouldn’t reward it in a blind tasting.
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