What’s a clever way to achieve a premium for wine? The answer: Go site specific and Mulderbosch is one of the producers to have grasped this. The entry-level Steen Op Hout Chenin Blanc, which has long delivered great everyday drinking, has an approximate retail price of R70 a bottle while the three current-release Single Vineyard Chenins from the 2016 vintage sell for around R265 a bottle each. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:
Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc Block A 2016
From 33-year-old vines on granite in Bottelary (south-facing) – all indentically vinified to better illustrate terroir, which is to say fermentation and maturation lasting 10 months in used 225-litre barrels. A rather shy nose with subtle notes of pear, white peach, fynbos and talcum powder plus a little yeasty complexity. The palate is relatively light and fresh with a savoury finish. The most delicate of the three. Alcohol: 13%.
Editor’s rating: 90/100.
Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc Block S2 2016
From 34-year-old vines on shale in Bottelary (north-facing). Stone fruit and even a little pineapple plus a slight waxy quality on the nose. Richer and broader than its counterpart above but still nicely balanced – good fruit concentration is offset by tangy acidity, the finish long and savoury. Alcohol: 13%.
Editor’s rating: 91/100.
Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc Block W 2016
From 35-year-old vines on granite close to the ocean. A complex nose of pear, peach, apple and orange plus earth and a slight nuttiness. The richest of the three with seemingly quite moderate acidity, some tannic texture to the finish. Plenty of interest.
Editor’s rating: 92/100.
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