Last night a tasting of the new releases of Swartland producer Mullineux Family Wines. The White Blend 2012, the Syrah 2011 and the Straw Wine 2012 were reviewed earlier in the year (see here) but a pleasure to re-visit them.
The White Blend 2012 is their best to date (a must-buy) while the Straw Wine 2012 is about as elegant as wines made in this manner get. As for the Syrah 2011, fascinating to taste it next to its so-called single terroir counterparts, the Granite Syrah and the Schist Syrah.
As with 2010, I’m inclined to prefer the less expensive standard label over the two site-specific wines but only just.
Mullineux Syrah 2011
Luminous dark red in colour. Red and black fruit, fynbos and spice. Really composed – great purity, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Very youthful and long.
Mullineux Granite Syrah 2011
From decomposed granite (“beach sand”) on clay – good vineyard canopies giving perfume and freshness. Red and black fruit plus intense spice (stalky?) and a vague earthy quality. Bright acidity and a very persistent finish. Very striking but perhaps a bit short of finesse – geeky stuff.
Mullineux Schist Syrah 2011
From hard, compact slate which doesn’t retain water – smaller vineyard canopies giving more fruit density and firmer tannins. Ripe dark fruit but also some fynbos and floral fragrance. Sweet in the best sense, rich and round. Typical Swartland.
New from this cellar is the Schist Chenin Blanc 2012 and jolly impressive it is, too.
Mullineux Schist Chenin Blanc 2012
Price: R423 (from Wine Cellar, Observatory)
Citrus and peach, spice, some earthiness. Relatively rich and broad but not to say weighty – winemakers Chris and Andrea Mullineux seem increasingly adept at capturing fruit concentration without the usual high sugars and alcohol. There’s particularly zesty acidity here, too.