Porseleinberg 2013

Crafted.

Porseleinberg is Boekenhoutkloof’s Swartland project featuring Syrah and whereas I was one of the few not to go into eulogies about the brilliance of the 2012, I’m much more convinced by the 2013.

My misgiving about the 2012 was the finish – for all that is good about the wine, every time I’ve encountered it to date I’ve found the tannins were mouth puckering/green and somewhat unpleasant/earthy.

The 2013, on the other hand, is much better resolved. Wonderfully expressive on the nose with notes of red and black fruit, purple flowers, some smoked meat, black olive and, yes, a touch of earthiness. The palate shows good fruit concentration, fresh acidity and fine, powdery tannins. Though the alcohol by volume of 13.5% is the same as the 2012, it seems to have more heft and it’s altogether less geeky. Approximate retail price: R500 a bottle.

Winemag rating: 94/100.