When the fashion of the day when it comes to Shiraz/Syrah is to move towards greater freshness (whether using some whole-bunch fermentation or not), the recently released Tamboerskloof 2011 from Kleinnood in Stellenbosch is pretty retro, which is to say rich, full and already quite mellow.
Including 5% Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier, it was matured for 17 months in French oak, 17% new. The nose is heady with ripe black berries, some olive, pepper and spice. Huge depth of flavour and smooth tannins but not lifeless – it’s powerful but still in balance. There’s a slight malty quality on the finish which is not unpleasant and the wine holds your attention even if you wouldn’t call it elegant. Price: R145 a bottle.