When I reviewed The Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2008 some 18 months ago (see here), I liked it very much although did note that the oak (12 months in French oak, 50% new) sat a little apart on the wine.
Drinking it with squid and chorizo salad on Friday night, the oak was no longer an issue. Intense apricot and peach, a slight mushroom character which I assumed was botrytis-derived as well as lots of leesy complexity. Rich and full, but also plenty of verve thanks to bright acidity.
Where had the oak gone? How do white wines age (given relatively low levels of phenolics and anthocyanins, the polymerization of which play such a crucial role in the ageing of reds)? Not sure but this wine was all the better for some time in bottle. Score: 17/20.