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The Fledge & Co. Klipspringer 2014

Fleet footed.

Margaux Nel and Leon Coetzee have made some characterful and appealing stuff under their The Fledge & Company label to date but the Klipspringer Chenin Blanc 2014 (Wine Cellar price: R115 a bottle) is next level.

From Swartland bushvines planted on granitic soils in the late 1970s, the grapes were whole bunch pressed and underwent spontaneous fermentation before being matured on the lees in tank. Why no wood? “We don’t have money,” says Coetzee, before adding “We wanted to retain the site.”

There’s a honeysuckle top note before notes of citrus, apple and peach plus a little yeastiness. The palate is really tight with extraordinary fruit purity and lovely acidity while the finish is long and savoury. And as for the absence of oak? My sense is that in forgoing a more oxidative treatment, Nel and Coetzee have arrived at something particularly true and forthright. A top drop.

Score: 93/100.

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