Bryan MacRobert, who makes his own wines under the Tobias and Abbotsdale label, consults to Hughes Family Wines and the White 2013, the first from organically certified grapes, earned him a place among the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year finalists last year.
Consisting of 58% Viognier, 22% Chenin Blanc 10% Roussanne and 10% Grenache Blanc, it underwent spontaneous fermentation, most in old oak but the Chenin and some of the Viognier in tank, maturation lasting nine months.
A wonderfully complex nose of white and yellow peach, honey and spice, a pleasant earthiness, a subtle waxiness, perhaps some roasted nuts… The palate is ripe and juicy, quite broad in the mouth but not short of freshness. It’s a seductive wine but probably just short of greatness – all that Viognier leaves it a bit hollow on the mid-palate. Still, who’s complaining at R110 a bottle?