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The Old Vine Series Kokerboom 2016

The Old Vine Series Kokerboom 2016
Massive attack.

From Olifantsrivier Semillon planted in the 1930s. The hot and dry conditions of 2016 have led to a wine of particular richness and ripeness in the case of this wine (alcohol is 14.5%). On the nose, the wine shows some hay before lime, white peach and green melon. The palate seems even more full and round than usual with a creamy texture undercut by tangy acidity, the finish gently savoury. Approximate retail price: R310 a bottle.

Editor’s rating: 92/100.

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  1. I am asking myself, faced with very hot vintage conditions such as was the case with 2016, do winemakers rein it in or just let the vintage speak? Considering the 2016 Sadie’s I do think the vintage is showing. But is there a limit? At what point does adjustments come into play. What is the limit for wine and who decides that? For some winemakers a PH of 4 might be unacceptable and for others not. The wine school perhaps taught them that it would be a problem if they do not acidify above 3.7. Intrinsically would it be a “wine fault” if you sit for example with a ph of 4 and TA of 4.5? and if that wine drinks well and last for 5 or 10 years would that not be OK? But I really believe that wine should show the vintage because that keeps it true and brings another dimension which connects us with its time and place.

  2. As long as its natural, as Eben’s wines are. That’s the beauty of wine.

    So over old-school wines (which still feature the same mistakes while missing the best that RSA terrior has to offer).


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