By Christian Eedes, 23 January 2013
Most observers would put Tokara in the top 10 producers in the country and rightfully so – the hallmark of the wines under this label is precision, which is to say great attention to detail but not at the expense of character.
However, the Bordeaux-style red blend 2005 (subsequently renamed Director’s Reserve) drunk last night for once left me unconvinced. Consisting of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. It underwent spontaneous fermentation and spent 20 months in French oak so plenty of serious intent on the part of winemaker Miles Mossop but was he successful?
I found red and black berries plus some oak-derived vanilla and spice. Very little development, which was to the wine’s credit. Lots of fruit in fact, not sweet as such but some savoury counterpoints would’ve done no harm. Difficult to fault but I had the sensation not unlike listening to Coldplay – impeccably put together but somehow too easy. Score: 16.5/20.