The binary opposite that defines so much of wine appreciation is Old World vs. New World, the former signifying wines of elegance and finesse and that are supposedly true to terroir, the latter wines that are rich and powerful and are the product of technical expertise in the cellar. Funnily enough, it’s not very often that you hear a winemaker proudly proclaiming his wine to be made in a New World style.
Last night the 2005 vintage of the flagship red blend from Tokara in Stellenbosch, a wine I found “New World” but in the best possible way with ripe but not over-ripe dark fruit, gentle acidity and smooth but not slippery tannins. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot, it spent 20 months in oak, 79% new. In a word, plush.