It has always struck me as immensely bad luck that over the 10 years that the Amorim Cap Classique Competition has run, Jeff Grier of Villiera has never managed to win it. For sundowners last night, a bottle of Villiera Monro Brut 2003. I was little anxious that it would be getting on a bit but it proved magnificent. Champagne typically has the edge on Cap Classique when it comes to complexity, but this was right up there.
The 2003 is a blend of 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, the latter barrel fermented, with five years on the lees before disgorgement. Our bottle showed enticing biscuity, bready notes on the nose before a palate of great focus and elegance. More citrus than red fruit but very pure and well delineated as well as touch of intriguing developed character. Acidity was neither too hard nor too soft, while the mousse was fine and still extremely energentic. Subtle, complex and long. Score: 17.5/20.