Van Loggerenberg new releases

Lukas van Loggerenberg says that after moving to Paarl in 2020 to avail himself of bigger cellar premises “quality by logistics” is no longer a constraint. “Previously I had to press to make room for new batches of grapes.”

The 2021 vintage was generally cool and hence late, which he feels has resulted in the densest wines he’s made to date. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:

Van Loggerenberg Trust Your Gut Chenin Blanc 2021
Price: R375

60% of grapes sourced from Paardeberg and 40% Polkadraai Hills. Struck-match reduction before pear, peach, dried herbs and some earthiness – all rather subtle. The palate possesses impressive structure – concentrated fruit, punchy acidity and just a little phenolic grip to the finish. Good depth of flavour and altogether rather forceful despite an alcohol of just 13%.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

Van Loggerenberg Kamaraderie Chenin Blanc 2021
Price: R475

The return of the Kamaraderie label but grapes now from a Paardeberg vineyard rather than Paarl. Here the nose shows reduction that is more flinty before citrus, peach and thatch while the palate has great clarity of fruit, snappy acidity and a saline finish. It’s a beautifully poised wine if still very tightly wound. As with its counterpart above, there’s a sense that this needs at least another six months to start showing at their best.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Van Loggerenberg Geronimo Cinsault 2021
Price: R305

87% from Faure grapes, 13% from Franschhoek (see below), the first component undergoing 40% whole-bunch fermentation. This vintage also saw two weeks longer on the skins post fermentation with a view to greater structure. Top notes of potpourri, rose and fresh herbs on the nose before red currant, wild strawberry and spice. The palate is well delineated with pure fruit, vibrant acidity and fine tannins, the finish super-dry. Combines delicacy and energy to good effect.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

Van Loggerenberg Lötter Cinsault 2021
Price: R475

From a Franscchoek vineyard planted in 1932, the second-oldest red grape vineyard in the country. Matured in concrete eggs. Plums, cherries, hints of earth and modeling clay (plasticene). The palate shows good fruit density – it has a roundness about it without being weighty – while the acidity is bright and the tannins very fine. Do old vines necessarily lead to profundity, though?

CE’s rating: 93/100.

Van Loggerenberg Breton Cabernet Franc 2021
Price: R375

Grapes from two Stellenbosch growers in and around the Polkadraai Hills area, 35% undergoing whole-bunch fermentation. Archetypal aromatics of red and black berries, pencil shavings, rose violets and some herbaceousness – very expressive and attractive. The palate has good fruit density (more so than usual although it’s hardly what you would call “plush”) and the acidity is well integrated, the tannins fine-grained. Poise, verve and length.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Van Loggerenberg High Hopes Syrah Grenache Cinsaut 2021
Price: R305

86% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 4% Cinsaut, grapes from the Swartland – the Syrah on prime vineyards planted on schist, 30% undergoing whole-bunch fermentation. Red and black berries, olive, dried herbs and white pepper on the nose while the palate is medium bodied with fresh acidity and crunchy tannins. Showing purity of fruit and good length, this has a ready drinkability about it.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

Van Loggerenberg Graft Syrah 2021
Price: R475

Truly beautiful aromatics including St Joseph’s lilies, red and black berries, fynbos, earth, pepper and clove while the palate shows great clarity of fruit, punchy acidity and fine tannins. A statuesque wine – muscular but not bulky. Great flavour intensity, harmonious and super-long on the finish.

CE’s rating: 98/100.

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