Desiderius is the “prestige cuvee” in the Pongrácz bubbly range from producer-wholesaler Distell and the 2008 (R255 a bottle) is the first vintage of this since the 2003. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, it spent 48 months on the lees. A slight yeast note on the nose while the palate is full but not too rich or evolved. Intense citrus, tangy acidity and a fine, persistent mousse. Well put together but somewhat anodyne and I suspect it will benefit from a year or two in bottle. Score: 16.5/20.