Greg Sherwood MW: Top six picks from the 2024 SA Cabernet En Primeur tasting

The Cape wine industry is blessed with a wealth of premium cultivars, white and red, capable of producing genuinely thrilling fine wines. Indeed, with the possible exception of Pinot Noir, one could argue that South Africa is now able to fashion wines from almost any international variety that can challenge the very best globally. Given a few more years of accumulated knowledge and experimentation, the Cape may yet produce Pinot Noirs to rival the finest from Burgundy.

Without wishing to ruffle any regional feathers, it is nevertheless undeniable that South African Cabernet Sauvignon has reached remarkable heights of quality and complexity, allied to a longevity that should make even the most astute international collectors and connoisseurs sit up and take notice.

It may be anecdotal, but the large UK private clients I encounter, many without any direct South African connection, are increasingly happy to add the Cape’s finest Cabernet Sauvignons to their portfolios. Some may still favour Cape Bordeaux blends, but even these are typically built on a formidable Cabernet backbone.

With this in mind, on my most recent trip to the Cape I was afforded an exclusive preview of 24 different 2024 “en primeur” barrel samples presented by the Cabernet Collective, showcasing some of the country’s leading producers. As someone who has tasted extensively from barrel during Bordeaux en primeur campaigns over the past 26 years, this offered a fascinating glimpse into what will be arriving on the market in the not-too-distant future.

The 2024 vintage in the Cape will be remembered as a season of dramatic contrasts, punctuated by what were described as “once-in-a-century” weather events, ultimately giving way to a harvest of exceptional quality, particularly for the region’s king of reds, Cabernet Sauvignon.

While the total grape harvest came in at approximately 1,116,780 tonnes, down on 2023, winemakers are widely hailing 2024 as a “quality over quantity” vintage. For Cabernet Sauvignon, its late-ripening nature proved a distinct advantage, allowing it to navigate a volatile spring and benefit from a warm, dry finish to the season.

The growing season was, in many respects, a tale of two extremes. It began with an unconventional winter, not especially cold, but marked by substantial rainfall across the Western Cape, crucial in replenishing reservoirs and groundwater after preceding dry years.

The defining early moment came in September 2023. As budbreak commenced, catastrophic flooding swept through the Cape, causing significant infrastructure damage and posing a serious threat to young vines. For Cabernet Sauvignon, typically later budding than Chardonnay or Chenin Blanc, this was a period of considerable anxiety.

Fortunately, with Cabernet still largely dormant or only just beginning to stir, it escaped the worst of the damage that affected earlier-ripening varieties. In the wake of the floods, conditions shifted markedly, with spring and summer characterised by warm, dry and often windy weather. The wind, though at times forceful, acted as a natural fungicide, reducing canopy moisture and keeping disease pressure notably low, a welcome contrast to the challenges of 2023.

Cabernet Sauvignon, of course, demands ample “hang time” to achieve full phenolic ripeness, when tannins soften and the green, pyrazine-driven notes of bell pepper evolve into layers of black and blue fruit, complemented by the cedar and vanilla nuances imparted by oak maturation.

The dry heat of January and February 2024 accelerated ripening, creating what many growers described as a relatively “compressed” season. Warm days ensured full ripeness, while cool nights helped preserve essential natural acidity.

A defining feature of the 2024 Cabernet crop was the small berry size. The dry conditions yielded tiny, highly concentrated berries with a high skin-to-juice ratio, widely regarded as a hallmark of top red vintages, resulting in intense colour, structural depth and impressive flavour concentration.

While quality was strong across the Cape, certain districts excelled. Unsurprisingly, Stellenbosch, the so-called kingdom of Cabernet, delivered an outstanding vintage despite early-season challenges. Attentive viticulture and careful winemaking have produced wines that are classical in profile, yet concentrated and finely poised.

On the Helderberg and Simonsberg slopes, producers report that despite reduced yields, tannin integration is among the best seen in recent years. In warmer zones such as Paarl, Cabernets achieved excellent ripeness, yielding wines that are generous and fruit-forward in youth, yet structured enough to age comfortably for a decade or more.

With many producers opting to pick slightly earlier to moderate alcohol levels and retain freshness, the resulting style of 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of both energy and power, athletic, vibrant wines with seductive dark fruit profiles.

My tasting notes on the 24 samples presented underline why this is a vintage worth both drinking and cellaring, wines that will offer early accessibility, yet possess sufficient depth and structure for medium- to long-term ageing. As these are unfinished wines, scores are expressed as ranges, in line with en primeur practice in Bordeaux.

Tasting Notes – Top Six

1. Kanonkop 2024

An incredibly complex, multifaceted aromatics that speak of prime Stellenbosch terroir but also old-world Bordeaux hints. Nose is tightly packed with piercing blue and black berry fruits, saline crème de cassis, iodine and graphite, with just a subtle kiss of French oak. In the mouth, the quality is astounding – broad, seamless and creamy while remaining electrically vibrant, energetic and mouthwatering. Perfectly ripened tannins add just the right amount of chalky frame on the finish. Sublime expression of grown-up premium Cabernet. 96-98

2. Le Riche Reserve 2024

The aromatics convey a complex array of black earthy fruits with hints of tilled loam, graphite, dried herbs, bay leaves and iodine hints. Tight knit, focused and concentrated, the structure shows elegance with power, finesse and complexity. Beautifully layered and tight grained, this finishes with a comfortingly grippy, muscular, mineral finish. Very classy. 96-97

3 =.  Bellevue Reserve 2024

Deep, broody aromatics tightly packed full of blue and purple fruits, salty cassis, violets and mineral graphite undertones. Fabulous purity on the palate, intense salinity and electric freshness that is buffered by the most silky and seductive pure blue and black berry fruit intensity. Wow! 95-97

3 =.  Beyerskloof Eerste Ry 2024

This is a power packed, richly textured expression of Cabernet with incredible breadth and depth, sweet blue and purple fruits, creamy sweet tannins that hide a surprisingly fresh acidity that’s already well integrated. Plenty of salted caramel, black liquorice, and vanilla pod oak spice on the long, hedonistic finish. 95-97

3 =. Oldenburg Per Se Rondekop 2024

This is textbook purity and precision from Nic van Aarde. Complex and layered, the aromatics boast crème de cassis, freshly baked blue berry muffins and vanilla pod spice before salty black liquorice and a graphite minerality. A delightfully elegant and sleek palate, chalky powdery mineral tannins and a mouthwatering acidity. All done with effortless elegance and purity. 95-97

3=. Thelema 2024

Another delightful classic that is pure, taut and structured with fabulously pure aromatics of crème de cassis, black chai tea, graphite and salty oystershell. Cool, sleek and lithe on the palate, this is an incredibly suave, polished, sophisticated expression that collectors will definitely want in their cellar. Very smart indeed. 95-97

The remaining high scorers

Meerlust 2024 95-96+

Delaire Graff 2024 94-96

Mooiplaas Tabakland 2024 94-96

Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Valley Reserve 2024 94-96

Simonsig Garland 2024 94-96

Bartinney 2024 94-95

Alto 2024 93-95

Muratie 2024 93-95

Vergenoegd Lőw Lara 2024 93-95

Warwick The Blue Lady 2024 93-95

Waterford Estate  2024 93-95

Le Riche 2024 93-94

Blaauwklippen 2024 92-94

Journey’s End V4 2024 92-94

Knorhoek 2024 92-94

Klein Graniet 2024 91-93

Kaapzicht Skemerling 2024 91-93

Spier 21 Gables 2024 91-93

For the consumer and collector, 2024 Cabernet Sauvignon represents a vintage of longevity. While the white wines of 2024 like Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc are already making waves with their freshness and tropical aromatics, the Cabernet Sauvignons are the slow burners. They are wines built with a core of dense fruit and firm polished tannins that will benefit from a few years in the cellar to harmonize fully.

If you are a fan of structured, classical, powerful South African Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2024 vintage is one to buy and hold. It is a testament to the Cape’s ability to turn a chaotic weather year into a masterclass of fine wines.

• Greg Sherwood was born in Pretoria, South Africa, and as the son of a career diplomat, spent his first 21 years traveling the globe with his parents. With a Business Management and Marketing degree from Webster University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA, Sherwood began his working career as a commodity trader. In 2000, he decided to make more of a long-held interest in wine taking a position at Handford Wines in South Kensington, London, working his way up to the position of Senior Wine Buyer over 22 years. Sherwood currently consults to a number of top fine wine merchants in London while always keeping one eye firmly on the South African wine industry. He qualified as the 303rd Master of Wine in 2007.