Editorial: The Swartland Revolution at 15 – Vive la Stagnation?
By Christian Eedes, 22 April 2025
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By all accounts, this year’s Swartland Revolution was a triumph. The wines were thrilling, the crowd suitably adoring, the hangovers probably manageable (see Michael Fridjhon’s piece here). But the question I can’t help but ask – perhaps because I wasn’t there – is this: Can we still, in good faith, call it a revolution?
Granted, some creative licence was being exercised when the event was first conceived, and yes, there’s still brand equity to be leveraged. But at what point does a word like “revolution” start to feel a little glib – if not outright distasteful?
After all, we live in a country where a real revolution – against systemic repression – was fought and, in part, won. As we approach Freedom Day, marking 30 years since South Africa’s first democratic elections, it seems worth pausing to reflect on what’s at stake when using terminology that carries such historical weight.
This year’s Swartland gathering marked 15 years since the inaugural event. Back in 2010, there was something stirring. The South African wine industry was in flux: the KWV had long since relinquished its statutory powers, transformed from super-cooperative to corporate entity, and the comforting blanket of price supports and surplus removal was gone. Grape growers, understandably distressed, began exiting the industry in alarming numbers – from 4,786 in 1991 to just 2,350 in 2023.
At the same time, however, the number of cellars crushing grapes soared, peaking at 582 in 2011. The Swartland “Revolution” emerged to prove that independents not only had a place in the new order but could thrive. And indeed, the Fab Four – Badenhorst, Mullineux, Porseleinberg, and Sadie – have gone on to build wildly successful brands, re-shaping perceptions of what South African wine can be.
But herein lies the rub: if revolution implies systemic transformation – something that benefits the many, not just a charismatic few – has that actually happened?
The broader picture tells a more sobering story. In 2024, South Africa’s vineyard area shrank to 86,554ha, down 15% from its 2006 peak. Grape supply is tightening, and while we remain the sixth-largest exporter by volume, we’re still outside the top 10 in terms of value. Premiumisation might come easily to the Swartland’s stars, but it remains elusive for the rest.
Let’s not forget: revolution, properly defined, is about overturning entrenched systems, establishing new structures, and delivering lasting benefits for the majority. Mere regime change won’t cut it – true transformation is deeper, more inclusive, more enduring.
Have the Swartland icons revolutionised South African wine? Certainly – for themselves. But perhaps they now serve more as outliers, a reminder of how resistant the broader industry remains to real change.
Of course, some readers might be tempted to dismiss all this as sour grapes. As mentioned, I wasn’t at the event. At R9,500 a head (before travel and accommodation), I couldn’t justify the spend. The organisers made clear no media would be invited – saying it was too tricky to choose who made the cut. I would respectfully suggest that refusing scrutiny is, in fact, a classic counter-revolutionary stance.
Still, I’m not cynical enough to think the revolution is over. If its core ideals remain unmet, then perhaps it’s time for a reboot – one grounded in today’s realities, broader in reach, humbler in tone, and bold enough to face the hard questions.
Because if we’re still calling it a revolution, then surely we owe it to ourselves – and the industry – to make sure it actually is one.
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Christian Eedes | 26 April 2025
Hi All,
Loving the engagement. Some thoughts:
SA wine needs the “revolution” to continue. Yes, there’s been progress — but while the inner circle pops corks, real issues continue to hold us back.
Critique is commitment. We challenge because we care, not because we missed the party.
New media is vital but precarious. Winemag offers independent, expert coverage that both industry and consumers clearly value (witness the volume of comments on this post) — yet a sustainable revenue model remains elusive. I trust everyone weighing in is also a paid-up subscriber to the daily reviews we produce.
Context matters. National politics shaped the industry’s past and inevitably shape its future. Naming that isn’t partisanship — it’s reality, and pretending otherwise would be naïve.
Greg de Bruyn | 26 April 2025
Yes, but…
We went. We took a deep breath and forked out the R23000 for two tickets and a tent. We’re not rich, but that’s a bottle of Le Montrachet from Alex Dale, a night at the Lord Nelson with dinner, a good Bordeaux food and wine evening at Wine Cellar. This weekend delivered so very much more: free entrance to Mullineux’s vintage launch, food and drinks on demand everywhere, three very special tastings, lavish meals with limitless fine wine (we staggered home with a half magnum of Mullineux Iron) and an awesome venue that must have cost a fortune. And then, when we left, they gave us our 8-glass sets of Riedel Vinum tasters in ostentatious carry cases, probably worth upwards of R4000 a set. It may never happen again, but it was worth it.
Fergus Stewart | 26 April 2025
Fully agree with Greg here. It was an incredible experience and when you factor in what you got for the money, not as hideous an expense as many have painted it to be. I heard on good authority it still cost the four wineries a significant loss to host as well. Judging by the comments and memes (“I’m stupid rich…”) shared by Christian on twitter from the moment the prices were announced for the event, this hit piece was inevitable. What a shame this world class wine event can’t be celebrated without the green eyed envy of those with an agenda.
Gareth | 29 April 2025
Greg, you just casually referred to buying a bottle of chardonnay for R23k – if you think you aren’t rich, I’ve got news for you bud.
Greg De Bruyn | 3 May 2025
I didn’t say I bought those bottles or stayed at the Nellie. I Googled some alternative indulgences in the same price range.
Sizwe | 26 April 2025
Christian is right. It would have been more fitting to name the event the Swartland Elite or the Swartland Monopoly. The initial Revolution stood for young winemakers going against the grain. A young winemaker arriving now in the Swartland will find the initial revolutionaries to be in fact the old guard. Of course like every old guard Eben, Adi et al have earned their stripes and deserve their fame and success. However why not pass the baton to the younger winemakers (maybe not so young anymore), the likes of which @Anton has alluded to? Let that be the continuation of the revolution. There’ll always be a market willing to rub shoulders with Eben for two days at R10k a head. Just a thought that it’d be insightful (and possibly revolutionary) to hear from Craig Hawkins, Thinus Kruger etc in a conference style event outside of the street party.
YEGAS Naidoo | 24 April 2025
Methinks , from these responses and counter-responses, CE has started a little revolution of his own by virtue of the pen and not any war object more lethal !
GillesP | 23 April 2025
21 comments and counting for that???? Not sure us foreigners quite understand this hype. Anyway I hope the attentees enjoyed. Personally I prefer to spend the R9500 on wine itself.
Peter Webb | 23 April 2025
If the article was intended to provoke a reaction, then the clickbait works, Christian! Coincidentally this weekend I was clearing out 20 years of accumulated “stuff” since I came back to the UK from SA and found some old copies of Wine magazine, including April 2006 with it’s assessment of the “10 most influential people in SA wine”, as assessed by Charles Back, Su Birch, Michael Fridhjon, Neil Pendock, Tim James and Wine’s editorial team. Apart from some amusing comments, such as Eben Sadie missing out partly because no one could afford his R400 a bottle Columella, the fact that KWV and Distell were the most influential industry powers at the time is a reminder of how much has changed.
Having attended 4 revolutions as well as other events hosted by Swartland Independent producers since, I found the premise of reflecting on a decade since the last revolution quite refreshing. Sure the young guns are now middle aged guns but there still seems to be a youthful curiousity as shown by Eben Sadie’s planting of Mediterannean varietals perhaps more suited for changing climatic conditions. While I couldn’t bring forward my SA visit by 2 months to be able to attend the event, reading some of the feedback did cause me to muse on some of the changes I have observed. The work of the Swartland Independent producers has transformed the region, to the extent that Swartland fruit is now being used by many winemarkers outside the region. It also spurred the relentless search for old vines and helped to increase the value received by farmers, as an incentive to stay invested in the old vines, low yields and all.
The Revolution also spurred other wine producing regions to up their game in respect to marketing their wares; I smiled when I saw that Anthony Hamilton-Russell moderated the Satirday session as I recall him visiting one year to get inspiration for what is now the Hemel-en-Aarde pinot noir celebration.
On balance there seems to be plenty of reasons to celebrate. Sure it is not cheap, but when I consider the costs associated with such a festival such as bringing in the Zuccardi wines from Mendoza I am not particularly surprised.
Angela Lloyd | 23 April 2025
Just for the record, I was there & paid for my ticket, an amount I also could ill-afford, but I’m glad I did; it was fun, informative and the wines, local and international, confirmed quality is progressing worldwide. . I also wrote about the event for my blog.
Apart from making it clear you weren’t there, I’m not sure what the purpose of your piece was. You meandered around the word revolution via South African history and wine industry stats. I’m afraid, by the end, I thought so what.
I’d add, the Swartland Revolutionaries have done much more for the area than just themselves. Premiumisation of quality is now found throughout the area, without all wines being premium-priced. I think of Jasper Wickens, Riebeek Valley Wine Company, Marras among others, whose wines uphold the Swartland’s reputation at more affordable prices.
Udo Goebel | 23 April 2025
hear hear, I agree 100%!
Anton Espost | 23 April 2025
The fab four of the Swartland Revolution may have bonds, flab around the waist, boring and eligible for a spot in Huis Bergsig, but the revolution carries on with the likes of Testalonga, Fram, Equinox, Intellego, Mother Rock, Blacksmith, Vinevenom, Terracura, Paulus…&&&
Even the Riebeek Valley Wine Co’s custom crush is out of the box.
Maybe the event missed the youth element, but it would be a healthy sign if the Beatles did not want the Rolling Stones at their party. The party in November is solid Swartland Band Aid.
Gus Dale | 23 April 2025
A rising tide floats all ships…
Hats off to the guys (and gals) in the Swartland for creating such amazing wines / events and setting the benchmark for the rest of us!
Thank you also for raising the price-profile of South African wine in a market where we are still regarded as “cheap ‘n cheerful”.
There is no such thing as a free ticket….
Paying for wines to be tasted, rated and published is also a luxury (and significant expense) many of us smaller wineries can’t afford – in which case we abstain, without comment.
Daryl Balfour | 23 April 2025
Boohoo! Sniff sniff. Snivel snivel. “I wasn’t considered important enough to be invited, so let me slag them off!”
I thought the purpose of a publication like Winemag was ultimately the promotion of South African wine (certainly it was in the days of the great Harold) and not to run down a sector of the industry for daring to host a celebration of where the original Swartland Revolution has taken them? Not to harp on about semantics and the use of a word that has multiple meanings and uses.
This event was in fact called “Back to the Revolution” and as such was a celebration of the 10 years that had passed since the previous one.
Boo hoo…I’d venture that CE and Winemag is unlikely to be receiving too many “invitations” from Swartland producers to future events or tastings, and perhaps will not be submitting wines for so-called “competitions” – where, oh, they have to PAY as well as supply free wine.
Sniff.
Christian Eedes | 23 April 2025
Hi Daryl, At Winemag, we’ve always believed that honest critique and thoughtful discussion serve the industry far more than undiscriminating backslapping. If a celebration of the Swartland’s past glories chooses to frame itself in revolutionary terms, it’s fair game to examine whether the substance lives up to the sentiment. In any event, one of the key points of the article is that for all the success of the Swartland independents, the industry as a whole is in crisis.
Daryl Balfour | 23 April 2025
Christian, as a former senior journalist in several leading South African newspapers, I was taught that to be able to give a reliable, independent and honest review of anything be it product or event, it is important that the reviewer NOT be there as an invited guest on a freebie. To bemoan the fact that a) you were not invited (as a VIP guest?) and then go on to mention that b) you could not afford the price – and then continue with a nonsensical & distastefully critical column brings into question your independence and the seriousness with which you take our industry. Fridjohn wrote an excellent review of the event for Winemag – better you’d just stayed quiet.
Gareth | 23 April 2025
Personally I would think that the leading publication that has been championing SA wine for decades is quite deserving of an invitation – or at least a discount.
R9500 is a crazy amount to pay. I also baulked at the cost when I received my invitation. I actually replied to query the cost, as it seemed to astronomical…
Tim James | 22 April 2025
I don’t know about media not being invited. The four producers all had tickets they’d paid for to hand out as they chose, as far
As I know. I was invited by one of them, and didn’t want to go; Michael Fridjhon was an invited guest. I don’t know if others were invited. Not inviting media because they’d have to choose is of course nonsense, as you say, especially given they had to choose which of their importers and buyers and friends or whatever to invite.
Greg Sherwood | 22 April 2025
Loving all the above pro and against commentary. Kind of reminds me of the gentrification of Glastonbury Music Festival in the UK, once a fertile ground for grunge, hippies and alternative youngsters, but now at £200-£250+ a ticket per person, firmly the abode of the upper middle class Somerset and London elite. Perhaps it can now officially be renamed the “Swartland Evolution” … a la Andre van Rensburg? ;-P
Udo Goebel | 22 April 2025
Reading your writing again it strikes me that you compare the Swartland Revolution with the uprise against Apartheid. Two different worlds in my opinion. Not fair and I really don’t see why you made the comparison?
With the help of ChatGpt, this seems like a good summary:
The original intention of the **Swartland Revolution**, launched in **2010** in the **Swartland wine region** of South Africa, was to **celebrate and showcase the region’s unique terroir and its new wave of winemakers**—particularly those making **natural, minimal-intervention wines**.
Here’s a breakdown of the **key goals** behind the movement:
### 🍷 1. **Highlight the Swartland as a serious wine region**
– At the time, Swartland was often overlooked compared to Stellenbosch or Franschhoek.
– The Revolution aimed to **put Swartland on the global wine map** as a region producing high-quality, expressive wines.
### 👨🌾 2. **Support like-minded, artisanal winemakers**
– A core group of winemakers—like **Eben Sadie**, **Adi Badenhorst**, **Chris & Andrea Mullineux**, and others—wanted to create a community focused on **authentic, terroir-driven wines**.
– They championed **old vines**, **dry farming**, and a **natural approach in the cellar** (e.g., native yeasts, minimal oak, little or no filtering).
### 🍇 3. **Promote natural and sustainable winemaking**
– The Revolution celebrated **minimal-intervention winemaking**, moving away from overly manipulated, industrial wines.
– The goal was **purity and place**—letting the vineyard and the vintage speak for themselves.
### 🎉 4. **Create a vibrant, inclusive wine culture**
– The annual **Swartland Revolution event** (2010–2015) was part wine symposium, part party—with tastings, talks, food, music, and lots of passionate people.
– It brought together winemakers, sommeliers, and wine lovers from around the world in a **laid-back, unpretentious setting**.
So, in essence, the Swartland Revolution was about **changing perceptions**, **raising standards**, and **building community**—all while keeping the vibe fun and rebellious. It helped kick off a broader movement in South African wine toward authenticity and innovation.
Tim Parsons | 22 April 2025
The world loves a tag line; “golden triangle” in Stellie, for example. The attention focussed upon Swartland, since 2010, has been a wonderful reward for the principle partners. Why shouldn’t they benefit, expanding their operations, and gaining worldwide profile benefits the whole sector! It’s a little curmudgeonly ( I do hope my predictive text doesn’t fail me) to criticise the use of a word because it may have historical connotations for the writer. It may well be the last one, at which point, you’ll need to find some other nebulous subject to exercise your writer’s spleen! Cheers.
David Wright | 22 April 2025
This was less of a review and more of a hit piece on the Swartland Revolution organizers. It also seems the tight-fisted journalist has also been hit by the ‘woke’ stick.
I was there – and the R9500 paid was worth every penny.
Viva La Revolution.
Christian Eedes | 22 April 2025
Hi David, The piece was intended as a considered reflection on how we use language like “revolution” in the context of South Africa’s broader historical and socio-economic realities. It’s entirely fair that you enjoyed the event and felt it offered value; that doesn’t preclude space for critical engagement. As for your description of me as “tight-fisted”, I’d gently point out that journalism – especially in the wine world — is rarely a path to riches. Attending a R9,500 event simply isn’t feasible for many working writers. That’s not being cheap; it’s about making ends meet.
Wessel Strydom | 23 April 2025
Christian, if I required a language lesson in how to use the word “revolution “ in a South African context I obviously missed the obvious in subscribing to the Winemag. To me it sounds more like being “ suurgat”
Melvyn Minnaar | 22 April 2025
Maybe it is now – in line with current political trends – a question of each for him/herself. (The smart high-end marketing spin for this party will indeed find fertile ground amongst those who have the cash. And the rest will still peruse the lower shelves of the wine shop.)
The fact that the terribly-named Heineken Beverages has just reported a drop of 20 percent in sales for the last quarter may also be a sign that, as far as consumers are concerned, no revolution has taken place. With one legendary wine brand after another quietly disappearing from the production lines of that new holder of the once famous SFW/Distell annals, one cannot be optimistic that South African wine culture is alive and well as a collective. The Heineken people “apologise” by saying they are still “learning” (about “more profitable wines”.) Oh well.
I wonder what those who signed off on that Judas deal are thinking these days. Started, like the chaps of the Swartland Revolution by a group of wine people in Stellenbosch exactly a hundred years ago, Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery was pretty revolutionary at the time too. Now its legacy only lives on in whiffs of memory…
Erwin Lingenfelder | 22 April 2025
What goes around comes around
Erwin Lingenfelder | 22 April 2025
Revolution is often followed by greed. While it is an established brand the Swartland has not reinvented the wheel. Many great local wines are still made in the traditional wine-growing areas, at relatively affordable prices.
If AGOA pulls the plug on SA wine exports I suspect that the Swartland stands to be hurt where it counts most for us all: our pockets. We are not going to pay what they currently earn in the US.
Udo Goebel | 22 April 2025
Sounds to me as sour grapes 🙂
The title of this event was Back to the Revolution, not giving freebees to journalists sounds very wise when you organise an expensive event and you could give the original 4 some credits for putting Swartland as a region on the map. I am sure many more winemakers/wineries/brands have benefited from their work. Any Swartland wine is now an easy sell compared to 15 years ago.
Cheers and no I could not make it but would have loved to join.
RUDI KOTZE | 22 April 2025
Agreed Christian that, at the cost thereof, the 2025 event was hardly representative of the ‘portion of the population’ typically associated with a revolution of any kind.
That said, the event is the Swartland revolution, not the South Africa revolution and it can hardly be argued that the Swartland has been revolutionised from a wine perspective and that this certainly goes wider than the founders.
Keith Prothero | 22 April 2025
I agree that R9500 was a hell of a lot to charge and certainly put many off , including myself and my family !! Guess the Revolutionaries did not want the riff raff there but only those who could afford the prices their wine now commands !!
Cannot really blame them as it was after all a commercial event and no longer the emphasis on marketing a “brand “ , as it was initially.