The Hughes Family Wines Nativo 2013
By Christian Eedes, 16 January 2015
Bryan MacRobert, who makes his own wines under the Tobias and Abbotsdale label, consults to Hughes Family Wines and the White 2013, the first from organically certified grapes, earned him a place among the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year finalists last year.
Consisting of 58% Viognier, 22% Chenin Blanc 10% Roussanne and 10% Grenache Blanc, it underwent spontaneous fermentation, most in old oak but the Chenin and some of the Viognier in tank, maturation lasting nine months.
A wonderfully complex nose of white and yellow peach, honey and spice, a pleasant earthiness, a subtle waxiness, perhaps some roasted nuts… The palate is ripe and juicy, quite broad in the mouth but not short of freshness. It’s a seductive wine but probably just short of greatness – all that Viognier leaves it a bit hollow on the mid-palate. Still, who’s complaining at R110 a bottle?